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Lakbay Norte VI Part 3: Of Cagayan and Things Unplanned

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Nuestra Señora de Piat
Nuestra Señora de Piat

Our custom Lakbay Norte Victory Liner bus shuddered to a stop and, with a noticeable soreness to my tushy, I woke. From the window, I saw that the weather had turned bleary. We’d been traveling for 12 hours, spanning the length of Nueva Ecija all the way to Cagayan. To here, in the municipality of Tuguegarao.

After shaking off sleep from our eyes and a round of pandiculation, one by one, my companions and I disembarked. It was past 7AM but it felt like the sun got lazy and was taking its time to get up. A light drizzle was underway and wisps of morning fog blurred the edges of things. There was a dullness to the scene, almost like it was painted with watercolor.

Milking cows at CSU
Milking cows at CSU

Cagayan State University

We were in the compound of the Cagayan State University (CSU), greeted by teachers and students, and representatives from the North Luzon Visitors Bureau, and Cagayan North Conventions and Visitors Bureau. It was here that we had our breakfast, sampling on CSU’s products like flavored milk and mango-flavored jello. We also got to try sugar cane juice, prepared on the spot. By us. We were given a stick of the thing which we had to feed through a grim-looking metal contraption that was apparently a juicer. How was it? Sweet, of course, and a tad grassy.

After breakfast, we were taken into a tour of the campus, to a goat farm and a milking facility. Just like PMP Farm in Nueva Ecija, the campus is being molded to become an agritourism site.

Facade of the Nuestra Señora de Piat
Facade of the Nuestra Señora de Piat (Photo by Martin San Diego)

Nuestra Señora de Piat

After feeding goats, and trying our hands on cow-milking, we boarded the bus once again. Our next stop was Nuestra Señora de Piat in Piat, Cagayan. One, I would later come to know, of the many churches we would visit in Cagayan. The structure was made of reddish bricks, reminiscent of revival architecture. Its interiors would’ve been impressive, accented with gold and bronze, but the Big Ass electric fans swirling overhead ruined the effect. Enthroned inside the church was the Lady of Piat. An image that was famous for being supposedly miraculous.

Inside the Chicha-rabao factory
Inside the Chicha-rabao factory (Photo by Martin San Diego)

Carabao chicharon

After that “courtesy call”, off we went to Lighthouse Cooperative – another one of my favorites during the trip. Here, we got to see how Carabao chicharon is made. From skinning to packing, we got to bear witness to the whole process. I was amazed at seeing the gelatinous cubes of carabao skin blossom into golden papery thin orbs of deliciousness upon contact with the vat of scalding oil. It was like alchemy. It had me seeing chicharon in an entirely different light. The best part, however, is the taste test. Flavored with a variety of seasonings – garlic, vinegar, and hot-and-spicy – the chicharon was hard to resist. I especially loved the hot-and-spicy ones. Never mind the fact that they cause a fit of sneezing and coughing. And as the proverbial cherry on top, we were given loot bags filled with all the variants.

The Tuguegarao Cathedral
The Tuguegarao Cathedral (Photo by Martin San Diego)

Tuguegarao Cathedral

We also did a quick stop at St. Peter Metropolitan Cathedral, also known as the Tuguegarao Cathedral. It was raining so most of us weren’t keen on standing outside to get a photo. But I managed to get a decent one. The church reminded me of the Paoay Church. It was built in the 18th century, and adheres to the baroque aesthetics. Like the Our Lady of Piat Church, it was made of reddish bricks. It was quite beautiful.

Pancit batil patung
Pancit batil patung

Pansit batil patong

Later, for lunch, we headed to a panciteria. A trip to Tuguegarao, after all, would not be complete without gorging down on some batil patong, and so it was decreed we would have it for lunch.

In one of the numerous panciteria in town, we were able to witness how the delicacy is prepared. We were told that the secret is the fire on which it was cooked. Instead of LPG, wood is used to create fire and this adds to the flavor.

It was my first time to try the dish and I loved it. You can never go wrong with noodles and pasta, I think, and pansit batil patong did not disappoint.

I have to note that all the while that Wednesday, the sky was teeming with storm clouds. All throughout, there was a downpour and it swayed back and forth from drizzle to sheets of rain. I shouldn’t have felt surprised when one of the highlights of the trip – exploring the marvelous Callao Cave – was scrubbed off the list. We were informed that a landslide occurred somewhere along the road that led to the cave, and while it was passable by foot, there was no telling if the cave was safe to explore or that other parts of the area were landslide-free. And so the plan to go spelunking was abandoned, much to the group’s dismay. The sulking did not last long, however, for we were travelers and know that such things were inevitable. We carried on and went to a local museum instead.

Balai Carmela
Balai Carmela (Photo by Martin San Diego)

Balai Carmela

Later, a few hours before dusk, when we were back on the bus, we were told that the road to Valley Hotel – our home for that night – was flooded. Impassable. But we shouldn’t worry, we were assured. A new accommodation was ready for us.

That night we were billeted at Balai Carmela. This was the best accommodation we had. The rooms were super nice. And we had the pool and the convention area all to ourselves. We were well taken care of here. An array of booze was even placed on the table for our (their) pleasure. Dinner was great too. There was a lot of options but I went for barbecue and a bowl of steaming soup.

After our dinner, we proceeded to have some fun, to make up for the unrealized parts of our itinerary. We played reverse charades, giving birth to lots of laughter, and inside jokes that still hadn’t lost its luster up to now. We got to bond as a group, got to know each other and find common ground.

I wonder what’s in store for us the next day.

The pool at Balai Carmel
The pool at Balai Carmel (Photo by Martin San Diego)

Essential Information

Cagayan State University
http://www.csu.edu.ph/
+63 78 844 0099

Nuestra Señora de Piat
Basilica Minore of Our Lady of Piat Rd, Piat, Cagayan

Lighthouse Cooperative
Corner Taft Street Centro 02, 39 Luna St, Tuguegarao, 3500 Cagayan
+63 78 304 0635
Operating Hours: Mondays to Sundays, 8AM to 5PM 

Tuguegarao Cathedral (St. Peter Metropolitan Cathedral)
Rizal Street, Barangay Centro 10, Tuguegarao, Cagayan

Balai Carmela
Capitol Hills, Tuguegarao City, Cagayan
+63 926 839 5746

The post Lakbay Norte VI Part 3: Of Cagayan and Things Unplanned appeared first on Ironwulf En Route.


Mt Pulag with Peak Pursuits: Back After Almost 14 Years

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Catching the sunrise at the summit of Mt Pulag
Catching the sunrise at the summit of Mt Pulag

13.6 degrees centigrade according to my watch barometer. We were inside our tent. I could imagine how cold it was outside our tent hearing the unrelenting howl of the wind. It is 2:30 am and we’re at the Camp 2 of Mt Pulag, the highest mountain of Luzon and considered as the third highest in the country. I braced for the chill as I zipped open the tent door. A draft came in as I peeked outside. The sky was clear with stars jubilantly sparkling. The waning moon illuminated the landscape. “We have a clearing!” I gleefully thought. Thank god the weather was on our side and after almost 14 years, I’ll be back at the summit of Mt Pulag.

On the road at Ambuklao
On the road at Ambuklao

Climbing Mt Pulag

If there’s one mountain in the country that I would highly recommend to enthusiast climbers, Mt Pulag would be on top of my list. During my heydays of mountain climbing, Mt Pulag was most climber’s dream of doing. Who wouldn’t be attracted to this mountain? At 2,922 meters above sea level, the trail transitions from the cool pine forest, to the eerily beautiful mossy forest and finally, the vast undulating landscape of the grasslands leading to the summit. The latter felt like walking in a dream. The grassland is also one of the coldest spot in the country where temperatures can reach up to sub-zero temperatures. On rare occasions, frost can be found on the ground.

Mt Pulag is expansive. It extends to three provinces – Benguet, Ifugao and Nueva Vizcaya. There are also a number of trails varying in difficulty. The easiest is the Ambangeg Trail and then the multi-day trek at Akiki Trail with a camp at the Eddet River. The Tawangan Trail may also be accessed from Ifugao and passes through a few scenic lakes. Ambaguio Trail is the longest and steepest of the trail. Among the trails, I had been to Ambangeg and Akiki Trails.

Climbing with these peeps
Climbing with these peeps. Group photo at the Badabak Ranger Station

Peak Pursuits PH Difference

My recent climb to Mt Pulag was handled by Peak Pursuits PH, an adventure outfit associated with Primer Group of Companies a major distributor of outdoor products and apparel. For this expedition, Mountain Hardwear and Columbia Sportswear, both already established brands in the outdoor industry, were heavily utilized. Aside from organizing and taking care of the transportation, fees, logistics, camp meals and porters, Peak Pursuits PH also brought Mountain Hardwear tents and sleeping bags to use in our camps. Seasoned UP Mountaineers, Jay and Ram-mon were our climb leads to make sure everything was in order. It sure made climbing less of a hassle as we only need to bring our personal essentials like extra clothes, trail snacks and accessories and just climb. A far cry on my first two climbs were we shared the load of our provisions to lessen the weight on our backs

Start of the climb
Start of the climb

Road to Mt Pulag

From the pre-climb a day before, Ram-mon explained clearly what to expect from the climb – from the trail conditions, to the weather and itinerary. He also informed us what was necessary to bring. After arriving in Baguio, a heavy duty jeep was already arranged to take us to the DENR Office at Ambangeg. We made a stop at Pinkan Jo where we had our breakfast and buy packed lunch. Our group was the only ones there and I admired the morning unfold along the Ambuklao River. The mountain view backdrop and the river while having a cup of warm brewed coffee was a great way to start the day.

Our spunky group opted to ride top-load the jeep and enjoy the winding road through Ambuklao. The rough dirt road I remember 14 years ago is long gone. It was paved all the way which made it easy to stay on top while enjoying the view of low-lying clouds hovering by the mountains and rays of light breaking through the mountain gradients while the river snakes through the valley. Our thrill was cut short as we had to go back inside the jeep when we reached the bridge a few hundred meters past the view of Ambuklao Dam. From here, we tried to catch a few more zzzzs until we reached the DENR station.

The DENR station was still closed when we arrived. Two other groups were already waiting. Office opened promptly at 8am. Here, we settled the park fees, viewed the mandatory film showing and attended the required orientation. Another hour and a half ride, we were already at the Badabak Ranger station, the jump-off for the climb.

Entering the mossy forest
Entering the mossy forest

More than a Decade After

At least a decade is enough to see how climbing Mt Pulag has changed. In this generation where travel is easily accessible to everyone, more people have climbed the mountain. It even came to a point that mass climbs of more than 500 people a day heavily damaged the trail. It lead to temporary closure to let the mountain breath and recover from the influx of tourist climbers. As of this writing, people are not allowed to camp during weekends from Friday to Sunday. This eventually led to people staying near the Badabak Ranger Station. Camping grounds and homestays popped up to take advantage of the climbers looking for a place to stay before their early morning assault at 1am the next day.

Another change is the Medical Certificate required for a climb. After a couple of recent unfortunate incidents of climbers dying on the trail due to carelessness and underestimating the mountain, the Department of Environmental and Natural Resources (DENR) as well as the Mt Pulag National Park management required medical certificates for climbers to make sure they are fit enough to climb. While this drew mixed reactions in the climbing community, I had to agree to this, to make sure casual climbers know what they are going into.

Admiring the vegetation at the mossy forest
Admiring the vegetation at the mossy forest

Retracing the Familiar Ambangeg Trail

I could no longer recognize the Badabak Ranger Station from when I last climbed November 2013. We traversed from Akiki to Ambangeg then. Now the road here is paved, the station moved a few meters, houses, eateries, homestays and souvenir shops line the road. We secured our porters here. I was dumbfounded how our 5-foot men and women porters could easily carry a 20kg load on their back and breeze through the trail far ahead of us. Really puts a shame to us urban dwellers already whining on how heavy our minuscule packs are.

Stone steps on the trail (left) and our guide Terry (right)
Stone steps on the trail (left) and our guide Terry (right)

I was surprised to see agricultural lands have slowly encroached the national park. Vegetable fields now dissolve along the mountains and ugly water cables litter the views on the early part of the trek. The trek became a lot more interesting when we reached the mossy forest. I noticed some park signs now like “no picking of vegetation”. An hour into the hike, after a steep ascent is a rest stop where we had our lunch. This was Camp 1.

Going back on this trail is like a trip back in memory lane. Mountain climbing was my first love and I remember my friends back then who partook the journey with me. People may come and go but this forest still remains the same. It is still the familiar forest who stood watch to every climber coming and going through its trail. I saw some familiar trees I consider landmarks. Some trail changes were added stone steps on parts I remember that can get muddy when wet. Unlike before, I took time to enjoy the trail, examining the ferns, the fascinating bend and twist of the trees and a close look at the otherworldly details of the mosses living on the branches.

In the midst of the mossy forest
In the midst of the mossy forest
Admiring this old Benguet Igem tree (left) and a smiling wood stump covered by vegetation in the trail (right)
Admiring this old Benguet Igem tree (left) and a smiling wood stump covered by vegetation in the trail (right)
Trees near the camp
Trees near the camp
I call them broccoli trees
I call them broccoli trees
Our camp 2 site
Our camp 2 site

Camp, Summit, Grasslands and Essential Information on the next page…

The post Mt Pulag with Peak Pursuits: Back After Almost 14 Years appeared first on Ironwulf En Route.

Lakbay Norte VI Part 4: Cagayan Brick by Brick, Tower to Tower

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Iguig Pottery
Iguig Pottery (Photo by Martin San Diego)

The rainfall that was repressed during our first day in Cagayan was now letting on. Dark clouds loomed overhead and followed us like vultures waiting to pounce. Everything was bleak and the air was heavy with the smell of ozone. But despite the less than cheerful weather, we put on our best smiles and bucked up.

A look into Iguig's pottery industry
A look into Iguig’s pottery industry

Iguig Pottery

That dreary morning, we eventually found ourselves in the town of Iguig, in a baranggay wholly committed to making pottery. All the households here specialize in some form of the art. They craft their products traditionally – by hand, without use of any modern implements, not even a potter’s wheel. Every intricate design is created by controlled movements of the wrists and fingers, with measured care and practiced motions. A precise mixture of red and black mud are used to create their masterpieces. Dadap, they call the former; hula, the other. They have to be equal in parts lest the final product turn out brittle and discolored. To harden the clay, they use kilns, usually found in their backyards, fed by firewood.

It was fascinating to see the residents so engaged and intent on their craft. This was the daily going-ons in the place, we were told. It did feel genuine, like they will continue to do what they were doing with or without our intrusion. They were generous too, answering every question, even letting us try pottery ourselves.

After a tour of the community, we were taken to one of the many roadside pottery stores. Here is where most of the pieces from the local potters are sold. From pocket-size ashtrays to enormous vases, all are sold for cheap. But I find that going directly to the potters for these products yields even cheaper prices.

Stations of the cross at the Calvary Hills
Stations of the cross at the Calvary Hills (Photo by Martin San Diego)

Calvary Hills and Church

Still in Iguig, our next stop was the Calvary Hills and San Antonio De Galicia Church. The Hills was sprawling, eleven hectares in total and overlooking the Cagayan River which was murky from the rains. With stone tableaus of the stations of the cross, it was obvious the place was popular among pilgrims.

San Antonio de Galicia Church
San Antonio de Galicia Church

The church itself brings the castles of Scotland to mind. It had a battered quality to its reddish structure, perhaps owing this to the flying buttresses that hold it in place. Set against a sweep of green, and with an unobstructed view of sky and water, all that was missing for a truly pastoral scene was a herd of sheep.

St Philomene church
St Philomene church

Alcala

The next destination was another church. With walls spanning 90m x 30m, St. Philomene Church in the town of Alcala dates back to the Spanish era, making it not just the “widest” red brick church but also the oldest. It lies adjacent to the St. Philomene Academy which , like the church, has a façade of red bricks. There is also a beautiful courtyard just before the entrance to the church. Walking around it sort of transports you back to time.

Sto Domingo de Guzman Church
Sto Domingo de Guzman Church

Lal-lo

After the town of Alcala, we moved farther up north to the charming town of Lal-lo. It was once known as the city of Nueva Segovia and was formerly the seat of the Diocese of the selfsame before it was moved to Vigan in Ilocos Sur. The Sto. Domingo de Guzman Church is found here, which, incidentally, is the only standing Spanish Structure in the municipality. While still staying true to the red-brick motif of Cagayan, one distinguishing feature of the church is the giant clam shell in the altar. The glistening iridescent shell is fastened just below the crucifix and serves as the lid for the church tabernacle. The shell is from the indigenous Batissa violacea – a freshwater clam that’s abundant in the Cagayan River, and is also the most expensive. Farming these prized clams is one of the main industries of Lal-lo.

Oldest brick bell tower
Oldest brick bell tower

Camalaniugan

The rains turned for the worst as we headed to the town of Camalaniugan. In the ruins of San Jacinto de Polonia Church, where the oldest brick bell tower stands, we battled wind and water. Wet, the red bricks of the structure became a muted brown. Above, the sky was ominous. Hunched and drenched, we wrapped our cameras under our clothes, daring from time to time to bring it out to take a photo.

Reaching Aparri under stormy weather
Reaching Aparri under stormy weather

Aparri

It was dark when we reached Aparri – the northernmost tip of mainland Luzon. The weather indicated storms. We were shivering even without the air-conditioning of the bus. In fact, it was colder outside than inside the vehicle, making us reluctant to alight. It was unfortunate, too, that we did not have enough daylight when we arrived. It would have been impressive to stand on the Aparri Delta and witness how the Cagayan River merged with the West Philippine Sea. However, upon being splashed with brine even from a significant distance and hearing the roaring waves in the dark, I thought, “Yeah, I’m good.”

When we checked in for the night at Riverview Royale Hotel, the rains had already mellowed down. Before turning in, there was only one thing I wanted for tomorrow: a bright, sunny day.

Essential Information

Calvary Hills and San Antononio De Galicia Church
Cagayan Valley Rd, Iguig, Cagayan

St. Philomene Church
Maharlika Highway, Alcala, Cagayan

Sto. Domingo de Guzman Church
Lal-lo Cagayan

Riverview Royale Hotel
Cagayan Valley Rd, Aparri, Cagayan
+63 949 480 0910 / +63 917 8025 776

The post Lakbay Norte VI Part 4: Cagayan Brick by Brick, Tower to Tower appeared first on Ironwulf En Route.

Lakbay Norte VI Part 5: Through High Water and Back

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Celine and Gretchen taking in the view at Palaui Island
Celine and Gretchen taking in the view at Palaui Island

That Friday morning, we all prayed hard for sun and blue skies. After the drenching of yesterday, still vivid and sharp, we wanted nothing more to do with rain. And as though the echo of our collective pleas reverberated throughout the divine plane, the roiling clouds started to ease. As a result, we hurried to board our designated motorboats.

At San Vicente Port
At San Vicente Port

We soon found out that the sea was not in a joking mood that day. Not long after we sailed from San Vicente Port, the languid water came alive with a violent jolt. Our wooden vessels lurched and reeled as a barrage of sizeable waves came hurling our way. In the beginning, my all-woman company (not accounting for the boatmen) was ridiculously cheerful. We had taken to reciting a rather infamous beauty pageant Q-and-A response every time there was a particularly massive wave. But this did not last long. After mascaras were smeared and gadgets were doused, we grew pensive, with only a subdued yelp from time to time. I was neither scared, though, nor queasy. The turbulent sea I’ve endured during a trip to Itbayat in Batanes had prepared me for any tempestuous voyages that came after. After that terrible ride, everything was basically smooth sailing for me. The alien landscape helped too. Despite the vicious pitching of our boat, the verdant headlands that we seemed to trace did not lose its allure. Sculpted by the meticulous hands of the same elements that were presently challenging us, the land masses were both haphazard and just right. Occasionally, what looked like waterfalls would run across the hewn precipices. Their definite solidness assured us, I think; helped us through the ordeal. If there was anything that made my heart flutter a little, it was seeing the members of our fleet slide in and out of the swells.

Anguib Beach white sands
Anguib Beach white sands

 Anguib Beach

After an hour, a candy-cane shaped strip of land materialized in the horizon. Anguib Beach. The waters relaxed as we neared the tree-lined coast. Jelly legs we might’ve been, but we ran to the sandy shore and thanked heavens for terra firma. We had our breakfast here, under a length of thatched cottage. The steaming macaroni soup was perfect to warm our bones.

Going through the mangroves
Going through the mangroves

Later, we hopped on our boats for another round of sea-travel. This time, though, we passed through still waters and clumps of mangroves. We glided parallel to the reef where, beyond, the waters turned violent again. Shortly, we docked in another white-sand beach. Punta Verde, it was called, and here we had our seafood fiesta. Prepared by the generous and masterful people behind Jaja Restaurant, our lunch was the bounty of the sea. Heaps of lobsters and shrimps filled the tables. There were fish, seaweed, and adobo too. Judging from the plates of my companions, the arduous journey did nothing to spoil their appetites.

Arriving at Punta Verde white beach
Arriving at Punta Verde white beach

Still massaging our stuffed bellies, we were warned of the dangers of proceeding to our next destination. Fortunately, the honorable coast guards guaranteed it was fine. And it wasn’t like we were going to let the matter rest just like that. We wanted Palaui so bad, the Universe was rearranging its stars to make it happen.

View at Cape Engano Palaui Island
View at Cape Engano Palaui Island

Palaui Island

Palaui Island lies on the northeastern tip of the Cagayan Valley. It’s one of those handful of places that are hailed as a next-best-thing-to-Batanes. With its stretch of radioactive green fields and dramatic drops, Palaui does come pretty close.

Dos Hermanos islands
Dos Hermanos islands

That Friday in early March, we went to a short trek up Cape Engaño. After a going through a path that affords an incredible panorama of the island, a stone structure came into our view as we reached the top. It was a lighthouse. Built during the Spanish Colonial period, Faro de Cabo Engaño towers over the limitlessness of the Pacific Ocean. To its north, the islands of Babuyan and Dos Hermanas can be seen. Suffice it to say, the view from here is simply breathtaking.

Cape Engaño was a most fitting Swan Song to Lakbay Norte 6. On the rim of this blessed island, the ocean extending away, the world seemed to tell us, “There’s more”. And after six days of discovering the treasures of the North, there is, indeed, so much more to uncover.

Faro de Cabo Engaño
Faro de Cabo Engaño

Essential Information

How to Get There

From Manila, Victory Liner buses have daily trips going to Tuguegarao City in Cagayan (12 to 14 hours). Once in Tuguegarao, there are buses and vans that will take you to the Sta. Ana Commercial Center where you can stock up on supplies. Then, take either a tricycle or a quadcycle to San Vicente Port – the jump-off to Palaui Island.

To tour you around the many islands and coves in the area, get in touch with the SAMOBA (Sta. Ana Motorize Boat Association). Details below.

Contact Details

Anguib Beach Club (Glamping and Overnight Services at Anguib Beach)
+63 917 652 0581
staanacagayan16@gmail.com
Facebook.com/staanaglampingandcampingresorts

Sta. Ana Motorize Boat Association
+63 935 383 9878 / +63 926 188 0213 / +63 935 130 6745

For bus schedules visit www.victoryliner.com

The post Lakbay Norte VI Part 5: Through High Water and Back appeared first on Ironwulf En Route.

Biliran | An Island of Waterfalls

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Biliran Waterfalls
Biliran Waterfalls

It’s not since Iligan when I got excited at the prospect seeing and enjoying a number of waterfalls in one area. Tablas in Romblon also have a good set of waterfalls on the island but most of them low type ones. The province of Biliran in Eastern Visayas however have at least 30 waterfalls on its mountainous island. Only at least ten of those have names and unlike Tablas, the island of Biliran have tall and powerful waterfalls that’s truly majestic. Others cascade beautifully. I have to Biliran three times for the past six months and I haven’t explored all of them yet. Here are the ones I have visited and ranked based on my favorites. These are also the ones I would recommend if you plan to chase waterfalls in Biliran.

Tinago Falls
Tinago Falls

Tinago Falls

Is probably the most accessible falls on the island but still retains its picturesque quality. Beautiful drop, large basin for swimming and wonderful cascades. Place is developed as Tinago Eco-Tourism Park with an amphitheater area for picnic near the lower swimming area. Large restroom and shower room. Parking area.

Location: Brgy Cabibihan, Caibiran, Biliran
Travel Time: 30 min from Naval
Entrance Fee: Php 20/pax

Bagongbong Falls
Bagongbong Falls

Bagongbong Falls

What I love about Bagongbong Falls is its rawness. No development whatsoever but there’s a small set or restrooms being built. The high cavernous walls feels like being inside a cathedral where the altar is the dramatic drop of the falls. It takes about 20 minutes to hike to the falls. You will get wet crossing the stream to get a better view of the falls so it is recommended to wear slippers, sandals or river trek shoes.

Location: Brgy Caucab, Almeria, Biliran
Travel Time: 30 min from Almeria
Entrance Fee: None

Ulan-ulan Falls
Ulan-ulan Falls

Ulan-ulan Falls

This falls has quite a character. A gorgeous pyramidal drop cascading along the high rocky walls. Ulan-ulan Falls is picture-perfect but ironically hard to capture. Its mist is like rain and the unending draft of air makes it challenging for photography especially when its waters flow at its fullest. Ulan-ulan Falls requires a challenging trek for at least 30 minutes to reach the falls.

Location: Sampao, Almeria, Biliran
Travel Time: 30 min from Almeria
Entrance Fee: Php 20

Recoletos Falls
Recoletos Falls

Recoletos Falls

If you reached Ulan-ulan Falls, trek farther up the falls to find this humble yet refreshing Recoletos Falls. It is a low falls but high cascades lead to this wonderful basin. It’s a great place to swim and even dive even. So relaxing after that trek. Named after a religious group hence the image of a saint by the falls.

Location: Sampao, Almeria, Biliran
Travel Time: 30 min from Almeria
Entrance Fee: Php 20 (same fee with Ulan-ulan)

Kasabangan Falls
Kasabangan Falls

Kasabangan Falls

Part of Kasabangan Falls appeal is the adventure of reaching the falls. The long fragile wooden walkway is daunting. But stay calm and appreciate the scenic trail as Kasabangan Falls is high up Cabucgayan. View of the Coalargo Bay on the horizon. There are amphitheaters and a watchtower similar to Tinago Falls heading towards the falls. Kasabangan has a quiet appeal enclosed in its dim rocky walls. Though I head this is just the lowest drop and visitors can still hike up to its 13th layer.

Location: Balaquid, Cabugcayan, Biliran
Travel Time: 20 min from Cabucgayan proper
Entrance Fee: Php 10

Casiawan Falls
Casiawan Falls

Casiawan Falls

Also in the midst of Cabucgayan is the highest waterfalls on the island, Casiawan Falls. A beautiful pathway fringed with a flower field leads to this striking falls. It pours down like a fine needle broken by the rock beds on the surface down to a gentle stream leading to the pool. I would have ranked this higher if not for the tidiness of the place. Yes, the trash here is nasty. I would understand if there’s no entrance fee but I hope the people managing this place would take measures of cleaning it up.

Location: Casiawan, Cabucgayan, Biliran
Travel: 20 min from Cabucgayan proper
Entrance Fee: Php 10

Karaha Falls and Cascades
Karaha Falls and Cascades

Karaha Falls and Cascades

Just because it is last on the list it doesn’t mean its the least in terms of appeal. Karaha Falls in Caibiran is a personal favorite. It’s a low falls with numerous layers of cascades. It’s another chill-out falls for swimming and lounging around.

Location: Villavicenta, Caibiran, Biliran
Travel Time: 30 min from Caibiran proper
Entrance Fee: none

Chasing Waterfalls in Biliran

On how to go to these falls? At the moment, the LGU of Biliran hasn’t imposed standard rates for habal-habal, tricycles or even multicabs. So it varies on who you talk to and your haggling skills. But just to give you an idea:

  • Habal-habal. If you are traveling alone or as a duo a day hire of a habal-habal with driver can be around Php 1,000 to 1,500.
  • Tricycles. They offer a more comfortable ride though hire a tryke with powerful motors. Price range can be Php 1,500 to 2,000 per day or even Php 500 per falls but haggle still.
  • Multi-cabs can also be hired from resorts including Agta Resort. If you are in a group, price ranges from Php 3,500 to 4,000 a day.

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Lakbay Norte VI: 3 Awesome Pasalubong from Cagayan

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The pottery industry in Iguig (Photo by Martin San Diego)
The pottery industry in Iguig (Photo by Martin San Diego)

To travel is not only to see. It is to feel, to hear, and to taste. There is a compulsion to take a piece of every place back home. Hence, the thriving industry of souvenir items. Taking into consideration environmental preservation and sustainable tourism, there are certainly more preferable items than others. Fortunately, when you’re heading to the northern province of Cagayan, there are more than one pasalubong that does not only help sustain the community but also perfectly encapsulates the province’s identity. Here are three:

Iguig Pottery
Iguig Pottery
  1. Traditional Pottery

In the town of Iguig, there is an entire community of traditional potters. Using only their hands to mold intricate designs, these craftsmen create one of the most unique souvenir items this side of the Philippines. For as low as Php10, you can take home your very own handmade pottery in the form of a plant pot or an ashtray. Larger items such as ornamental vases are also up for grabs starting at Php100 a piece. If you’re looking for bricks for your front yard, there are some for sale here also. Contact one of the traditional potters at +63 935 479 2634.

Teaño Milk Candy
Teaño Milk Candy
  1. Delicious Milk Candy

For your family member who’s into sweet things, Teaño Milk Candy from Alcala is the perfect take-home item. These addictive candies have been around since 1930 and continue to delight the taste buds up to this day. It’s made from fresh carabao milk and is so much better than a glass of it. Visit the store at Bacolod, Alcala, Cagayan or contact +63 531 00 45. They also have a branch at 18 Lion’s Road Mandaluyong City if you just can’t get enough of it (which is very likely).

The Chicha-rabao
The Chicha-rabao
  1. Sinful Carabao Chicharon

Speaking of carabao, another prized product made from our national animal is Tuguegarao’s carabao chicharon. For anyone who loves chichirya, these alchemical skin-blossoms will be irresistible. Produced and available for sale at the Lighthouse Cooperative at Corner Taft Street Centro 02, 39 Luna St., take home a pack or two for that one tito who appreciates a good pulutan, or for that friend who just enjoys munching on something while watching Game of Thrones. Contact +63 78 304 0635 for more information.

These are some pasalubong from Cagayan you can bring home for your family and friends back home. They’re sure to be a hit! Of course, you can always be a bit selfish and buy some for yourself. We won’t judge you. *wink wink*

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Rediscovering Ilocos Sur’s Thrills with Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub

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Paragliding activity with Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub
Paragliding activity with Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub

Ilocos Sur is perhaps best known for Vigan’s Spanish-period architecture. But two hours away from the capital, in the windswept shores of Narvacan, an adventure camp is fast becoming a word-of-mouth gem. Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub, or NOAH, was founded in 2005, known only to a small circle of thrill-seeking explorers. They would drive seven hours to Narvacan to windsurf and paraglide at Bantay Abot hill, then later on, to scale the vertical walls of Via Ferrata. In February this year, NOAH’s management decided it’s time to extend its small family.

NOAH in Narvacan, Ilocos Sur
NOAH in Narvacan, Ilocos Sur

Fresh from a three-hour shuteye in nearby Top V Hotel, our sprightly crew of bloggers boarded a van to NOAH for a crash course on its four activities, each representing an element: water for windsurfing, air for paragliding, earth for rock climbing, and fire for a 4×4 ATV ride.

That February day kicked off with a breakfast of Ilocano delicacies at Arko, a beachfront dining outfit also managed by NOAH. Boasting one of the best on-land views of Bantay Abot hill and Narvacan Beach, Arko was built to cater to NOAH’s hungry visitors, and its backyard as a camping site (P150 per tent). Campers have their own “sustainable” bunk for bonfires, as well as bathing cubicles for doing one’s business.

Buggy rides at the goldens sands of Narvacan
Buggy rides at the goldens sands of Narvacan

4×4 ATV

The La Paz sand dunes is perhaps the most famous in Ilocos – nay, the Philippines. But while the latter features larger expanses of golden sand, Narvacan’s version is unique in that it overlooks the sea.

Buggy rides start in front of Rock Garden – a luxurious event space by the shore, also owned by Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub – continuing toward three-kilometer off-road slopes that span from the Sulvec port to the Narvacan river. The fantastic view, fresh sea breeeze, and suited-for-first-timers sand dunes make NOAH’s ATV adventure worth a try.

Drivers must own a driver’s license, but if you don’t have one, tag along a friend who drives and enjoy the backseat cruise. A 4×4 only costs P2,500 and can be split into 5 persons.

Rock climbing up Bantay Abot Hills
Rock climbing up Bantay Abot Hills

Vertical rock climbing + zipline

Taking place in one of Narvacan’s most prominent feature – Bantay Abot hill – NOAH’s zipline stands out from the rest. While most zipline facilities are rather straightforward, at Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub, one needs to climb 150 meters of a craggy rock in order to reach the zipline. Though fitted with steel cables to ensure climber safety, the short trek will surely come off as a test for acrophobic people.

Halfway through, you will find the zipline platform, where you will be strapped in for a thrilling plunge down to Arko (although a bit slow near the end). My climbing journey ends here, and I decide to no longer push through with Via Ferrata due to my fear of heights.

Zipline View
Zipline View

But if you’re more of the adventurer type, instead of taking the zipline, you can continue on to the Via Ferrata trail, which features a 100-meter vertical section on an adobe rock. Designed for tourists with no climbing experience, the trail requires minimal leg power.

The zipline costs P300 and going up the Via Ferrata trail, plus the zipline (on your way down) costs P800. Both include safety gear and expert guides.

Hobie cat sailing
Hobie cat sailing

Windsurfing + kitesurfing

Because Narvacan beach is strategically positioned next to a hill, the water has a steady side sore wind and is thus, perfect for kitesurfing, windsurfing and hobie cat sailing. The waves are gentle, so you don’t need to worry about being buoyed into the middle of the sea (in the unlikely instance that you do get blown, NOAH povides a safety vest and guides).

From a distance, windsurfing looks like a pretty easy feat. “It seems pretty doable”, I told me self after our briefing. On water though, it’s a different story. The mast is doubly heavy when wet and it is much harder to control the boom and pull it back to your body when the wind hits. Still, I had so much fun, and I look forward to more windsurfing in the future.

Rates:
Hobie cat (with pilot and intro to sailing) – P800 for 30 minutes, maximum of 2 pax
Windsurf lessons – P2,500/hour; minimum of P1,500
Windsurf board rental – P800/hour

Tandem paragliding with a scenic view with NOAH
Tandem paragliding with a scenic view with NOAH

Paragliding

The highlight of our day was tandem paragliding with a trained pilot from Sarangani. Some of us flew in the morning, and some, during late afternoon. The wind conditions above Bantay Abot hill change throughout the day, so there are more windows of opportunity for a successful launch.

Even with my fear of heights, the contraptions felt very safe, and knowing that I was in the hands of master flyers who are trained by international pilots, made me at ease. There is no better way to cap a day than flying at sunset. As I watched the sun set at sea from hundreds of feet above, I heaved sighs of awe, grateful for being in Ilocos Sur to explore this lesser-known destination.

Vitalis White Sands, A greek-themed resort at Sabangan Beach
Vitalis White Sands, A greek-themed resort at Sabangan Beach

Vitalis White Sands

Our two-day journey ended at Vitalis White Sands, a Greek-themed resort straddling Sabangan Beach. One of many burgeoning Santorini-inspired resorts in the country, Vitalis White Sands is fitted with intricate Grecian details and luxury villas that afford one the best of both worlds: Philippines and Greece.

As I savored toothsome Greek dishes (and the best hummus) with my fellow writers, I became filled with happiness, having rediscovered the north. Truly, Ilocos Sur is more than just cobble-stone streets and heritage structures. It is a province brimming with possibilities for everyone – the history buff, the the luxury traveler, and thrill-seeking ones – yes, even those who fear heights.

Greek dish at Vitalis
Greek dish at Vitalis

Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub (NOAH)
Brgy. Bantay Abot, Narvacan, Ilocos Sur
Contact numbers: +639193498473/ +632 734 8883
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/NarvacanOutdoorAdventureHub 

Vitalis White Sands
2207 Santiago, Ilocos Sur
Contact number: +632 373 3333/ +632 404 4784
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/VitalisWhiteSands
Website: http://www.vitalisresort.com

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Bontoc | Caneo Weaving Wonders

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Auntie Benita showing us her finished Caneo weaving
Auntie Benita showing us her finished Caneo weaving

“Tig tig tak! Tig tig tak!” I hear the sound of the loom beaters colliding. Creating a rhythmic beat as a weave of pattern slowly forms. I watch Auntie Benita busy with her loom at the balcony of her house overlooking the roof of her neighbors along with the high mountains hugging their village of Caneo (sometimes Can-eo). Her ever watchful grand daughter Shakira stays by her side. Observing how she skillfully coordinates her motions, from pedaling the treadles to shuffling the shuttle between the threads. Much like Shakira, Benita learned how to weave watching her mother as she grows up. Traditional Caneo weaving, which they call Tilar, is very much alive in this remote village.

View of the sitios in Caneo
View of the sitios in Caneo

Visiting Caneo

I have been fascinated by Bontoc weaving in general. Woven fabrics are not merely for aesthetics but the patterns also reveals a blueprint of their culture. I noticed also the different styles from different village and it would be interesting how those patterns were influenced. Our visit to Caneo was a spur of the moment decision. It was suggested by our friend Suzzette of Maligcong Homestay since I was also looking for suppliers on a possible venture.

Caneo is 8km away from Bontoc town proper. Suzzette’s husband Jerome drove us all the way to where the road ends in the village. We did a couple of stops along the road admiring at the valley were Caneo sits idle. Jerome left us there as we were going for a long hike to Tocucan Village. But not before we checkout the village first.

Passing through some homes in Caneo
Passing through some homes in Caneo

Caneo Weaving

It was evident from the onset the loom weaving is a backyard industry in Caneo. From the first few houses we saw, there were looms found in almost all the homes we passed by. We ventured further past the rice fields where we saw a few locals busy tending their patch of fields. Most of the houses were empty since mid-day means they are out at work. But we chanced upon Nanay Catalina in her leather back strap weaving contraption at the open basement of her house.

Backstrap weaving or Tinakud
Backstrap weaving or Tinakud

Tinakud Weaving

Backstrap weaving or what they locally call Tinakud is an old form of weaving practiced in Bontoc. It makes use of a custom-sized wood frame built to fit for a particular weaver. A leather belt is strapped on the back to keep the threads taut for weaving. It was fortunate that Suzzette was with us as she helped us warm up to her and talk. Nanay Catalina was making a decorative pattern they call pantig. While the cloth looks narrow, finishing the whole piece would take three days. She admits that this type of weaving is back-breaking. It was easier to tend to the fields than this. But weaving adds extra income to her home by selling products in town. Oggie bought an already made

Most households in Caneo are into weaving
Most households in Caneo are into weaving

Tilar Weaving

I caught a glimpse of a little girl peeking curiously from the balcony of the neighbor’s house. What got me curious was loom found at her home. Soon we met Auntie Benita and her granddaughter Shakira who welcomed us warmly. It was interesting to observe another their loom-type weaving which they call Tilar. While it is friendlier on the back and faster to make, the process is meticulous and complicated. I easily got lost to the shuffling of the shuttle and shifting of the threads and suddenly get awed by the pattern it made. Asking where she gets inspiration for her designs, she said sometimes she dreams about them, echoing those from Lake Sebu’s Dreamweaver.

Weaving tradition are passed on through fervent observation from the younger generation
Weaving tradition are passed on through fervent observation from the younger generation

Caneo Weaving Tradition

We waited for a while until Auntie Benita finished her 22 yards in which each of us bought a couple of yards each. I admired the pattern on this weaving which are normally used as skirts for special occasions. Likewise it can be used as decorative pieces as well. While loom weaving is a prevalent industry in Caneo, it never got as commercial. In fact, Caneo weaving predates that of Sagada but since marketing their goods are solely on their own it never got as popular.

I’ve read that there are already a number of projects by Department of Science and Technology-Cordilleras (DOST-CAR) to upgrade the weaving community of Caneo. But at the moment I haven’t seen the impact of that project yet. It would be better if there’s a place, even in Bontoc where people can readily see and buy their products so the weavers don’t have to market them them individually.

Working on weaving underneath the house (left) pantig design (right)
Working on weaving underneath the house (left) pantig design (right)
Weaving the pantig
Weaving the pantig
Manually fixing the threads and the loom
Manually fixing the threads and the loom
Pedaling the treadles
Pedaling the treadles

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Bontoc | Follow the River Hike from Caneo to Tocucan Trail

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Caneo to Tocucan Trail
Caneo to Tocucan Trail

I must admit. The urge to cover as much places as I can when traveling has lost its zing. New places still fascinate me but beyond the established tourist spots. Lately I have been visiting Bontoc, Mountain Province a lot. I’m still enticed to explore deeper into the area. My recent visit finds me hiking the Caneo to Tocucan Trail. Villages off the radar to most people since they are located in valleys tucked deep in the mountains. It was an idea thrown to us by our friend Suzzette which we gladly obliged as I was also looking for good suppliers for some native weaving.

A backstrap weaver in Chapyosen creating a pattern for the deceased
A backstrap weaver in Chapyosen creating a pattern for the deceased

The Loom Weaving Village of Caneo

Our close encounters with Nanay Catalina and Auntie Benita in Caneo gave us first-hand information about Caneo Weaving. An impressive craft that also deserves some spotlight among the many weavings in the highlands. The village itself is intriguing. The rice terraces is not as expansive as other villages since a large portion of their livelihood comes from weaving. Its remoteness sitting in a valley and its age-old weaving tradition adds to its charm. As we hike to exit the village, we saw the many rice granaries orderly extending out to follow the trail along the river.

View of rice granaries as we exit sitio Fabfey
View of rice granaries as we exit sitio Fabfey

Hike Along the River

We had three teenage boys to help guide us on the trail out of the village. We sure am glad Suzzette was with us as she could easily speak in their native tongue. The trail follows what they call Ping-ew River which is also part of the Talubin River. Local runners frequent this trail spanning at least 5km. The initial part of the trail descends low and close to the rushing river and its rocky riverbed. The river sure looks cool and refreshing. If we weren’t pressed for time, it would have been fun to swim in its clear light turquoise waters. We told the boys to go back at their village after reaching a waiting shed. We wouldn’t want their parents looking for them and worry.

At the village of Chapyosen
At the village of Chapyosen

Charming Chapyosen

From here on, we were on our own to continue down the Caneo to Tocucan Trail. Slowly, we found ourselves ascending from the river up to a high point on the hill. It was a pleasant hike reminiscent of the Batad to Bangaan trail which I also enjoyed. The trail hugs the along the low mountain side with the river a constant companion on our right. Shortly, we saw the small Chapyosen Village on the opposite side of the river and a group of kids playfully jumping and swimming afar. We had lunch at the trail as it was past mud-day already. We had sweet potato given to us by Lola Catalina and a few of our trail bars for nourishment before continuing on. We didn’t really plan on entering the village but seeing that eye-catching waterfalls beside it was too tempting not to go.

Loom threads
Loom threads

We decided to take a look at Chapyosen which is still a sitio of Caneo. Loom and backstrap weavers were plenty here too. Curious children looking through their windows. As with any native houses, animal bones hang below houses side by side with their looms. Locals use the open basements or the side of their houses for doing backstrap weaving. I was surprised with a Canadian foreigner there who was renting one of the houses for his vacation as the place is so remote. We visited some of the houses and talked to the weavers. They were real friendly and I like the good atmosphere of the village.

Looking up at Arawi Falls
Looking up at Arawi Falls

Arawi Falls

After having conversed with the locals, we visited the falls which is just at the upper right side of the village. They call it Arawi Falls. We’re estimating it to be about 50–60 feet high. It’s a shower type of falls with no basin. It may also be one of the village’s water source. We didn’t stay long as we had to catch the last ride back to Bontoc from Tocucan.

The trail towards Tocucan
The trail towards Tocucan

Caneo to Tocucan Trail

We got a little lost moving on from Chapyosen that we almost wanted to wear our clothes from the inside already. I think we went around the trail more than three times. We calmed down and collected ourselves and managed to find the right way. The trail was way past the school heading north.

We found ourselves entering a low forest trail. It was a relief that we kept crossing paths with several locals. They were individuals, groups and even families with young ones. Judging by some the baggage they were carrying, they came from Tocucan and are on their way to Sitio Chapyosen or farther to Sitio Fabfey, Caneo where we met the other weavers. We often asked how long until we reach Tocucan and we get different replies — from 30 minutes, two hours to over an hour. My estimation was over an hour basing from my maps and our pace. I just admire the perseverance of this people to hike to their remote villages just to go home. There was no other way.

Crossing Chico river for Tocucan Village
Crossing Chico river for Tocucan Village

Tocucan Finally

The hike at the Caneo to Tocucan Trail offered a lot of scenery at easy to moderate difficulty. What disappointed me were the numerous trash on the trail. Obviously from locals having their rest stops and just throwing their trash as they leave. If the LGU can do something to develop this trail, it has a potential to lure more tourist in the area.

Finally after more than 5 hours on the trail with side trips, we reached Tocucan Village. We crossed the deep and still emerald-colored Chico River via a hanging bridge. Entered the village and passed through its local basketball gym to find refreshment and some snacks at the first store we saw. A squall caught us on the road but lucky for us, we also caught the last jeep heading towards Bontoc town proper. Riding 5km to town and the rain abating, we also caught the last jeep to Maligcong. Oh what a way to spend the day.

Walking along rice paddies to exit Fabfey
Walking along rice paddies to exit Fabfey
Crossing paths with one of the locals
Crossing paths with one of the locals
View of Chapyosen Village
View of Chapyosen Village
Crossing ping-ew river for Chapyosen
Crossing ping-ew river for Chapyosen
Curious kids at the window
Curious kids at the window
Backstrap weaving in between houses
Backstrap weaving in between houses
Towards the last stretch of the trail
Towards the last stretch of the trail

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Step-by-step Guide in Booking a Budget Sagada Hotel Using the Traveloka App

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Using Traveloka App to book hotels in Sagada
Using Traveloka App to book hotels in Sagada

Sagada has enthralled travelers both local and foreign. It’s a shangri-la 5,000 meters above sea level located in the Mountain Province. Stunning limestones, breathtaking sunrises with sea of clouds, captivating cave formations and cool nature walks are some of its main attractions. To enjoy Sagada, one has to endure at least 12 hours of travel. Long travel can be taxing so it’s smart to book an accommodation already as not to unnecessarily wander around to look for on. Traveloka App makes it easy to book hotels in Sagada ahead of time.

Finding a hotel in Sagada using the app
Finding a hotel in Sagada using the app

Sagada Hotels in Traveloka App

There’s a good variety for a budget stay in Sagada. The Traveloka App offers options for finding the suitable hotel for you. Whether you like the quiet side of town or right into the heart of action, booking takes a few easy steps.

  • Install Traveloka App from the IOS Apple Store or the Android Google Play Store
  • Open the app and choose hotel booking
  • Fill in the necessary parameters (location, dates, durations, number of guests and number of room) on the simple to use hotel search
  • An initial list of hotels sorted by popularity and recommendation will appear for the results. The listing page can be further sorted out
    • At the top is for “Luxury” or “Budget” and on occasions, “Mystery Deals” if available in the location
    • Filters available for hotel star rating, price range, facilities (like wifi, parking etc), and types of accommodation (B&B, Hostel, Resort, etc)
    • Sort by popularity, price and rating
    • Map location of the hotels
    • Until finally trimming down your choices of hotel, visit their detailed info for ratings and available rooms
  • Select your room preference and proceed to payment
Hotel details, rooms and reviews
Hotel details, rooms and reviews

Easy Payment Options

In the Traveloka App, one does not need to register an account to book. But if you plan to use the app in the future, it is wise to register as a member to cut down the booking process and repeatedly fill in your details. One of the best things about booking are the number of payment options

  • Debit/Credit Card (VISA or MasterCard)
  • Over-the-counter (7–11, M.Lhuillier and Cebuana Lhuillier)
  • Bank Deposit (BDO, BPI and Metrobank)
  • Online Payment (Dragonpay and Coins.ph)

Once payment is complete, the hotel booking voucher will be sent to the registered email. An SMS notification will be sent as well.

Find your convenient payment option
Find your convenient payment option

Support and Convenience

Using the Traveloka App to book hotels in Sagada is quite easy as you’ll find out. Personally, I like to stay a bit out from the center of town where it’s quieter.

For peace of mind, Traveloka has local support here in the Philippines if anything goes wrong during the booking process. Try it now!

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Stay | I’m Hotel: 5 Star Luxury in Makati and the First Onsen Spa in the Country

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The bedroom at the 1BR Executive Suite at I'm Hotel
The bedroom at the 1BR Executive Suite at I’m Hotel

It’s all about you at I’m Hotel. It’s time to celebrate your individuality and indulge yourself with some much deserved luxury. I’m Hotel is a 5-star hotel in the heart of the bustling Poblacion, Makati. It’s hard to miss this 24-story hotel, towering at the corner of Kalayaan and Makati Avenue. It’s near the central business district and just walks away from where the nightlife and shopping areas are.

Lobby of I'm Hotel
Lobby of I’m Hotel

I’m Hotel Luxury Rooms

I’m Hotel house 434 spacious rooms with a minimum floor area of 30sqm (Classic Studio) to as large as 82sqm (2BR Executive Suite). For my stay, I had the 57sqm 1 BR Executive Suite with balcony. Upon checking-in, they had to let me sign a waiver for the balcony use (probably for any untoward incidents like jumping off a building?). A proximity card was given as the key as well as the vouchers for breakfast and access to wifi.

The dial pad for the elevators were overwhelming at first. With so many numbers and varying layouts for each elevator, it is easy to get lost. I did find my suite once at the 22nd floor of the building. The proximity card worked without a glitch. I was impressed with the luxurious suite once I got it. A large living room area with walls in earth-pastel colors and cozy lighting, a balcony overlooking Makati and Guadalupe area, full featured kitchen complete with cooking wear, utensils and fridge and a washing machine too. And I must give props for having pour-over coffee from Brillo instead of those cheap 3-in–1 coffees at the bar. Wifi worked well in room enough for me to finish a few task.

Full featured kitchen and cozy living room area
Full featured kitchen and cozy living room area

Then there’s the bedroom itself that could pass for another room. There’s a large king sized bed, fluffy yet firm pillows, 500 thread count linens and uber comfortable memory-foam mattress. There’s a large LCD TV here as well as outside at the living room. The dark themed bathroom uses a sliding door. There’s a glass divider for the tub and shower.

Bird cage lounge areas and acrylic-bottom glass pool
Bird cage lounge areas and acrylic-bottom glass pool

Topnotch Facilities

I didn’t want to get too comfortable in the room as I was also planning to check out the other facilities. I went to the 2nd floor for the swimming pool area. It has a glass-bottom acrylic pool with colorful bird-cages inspired lounging area. I went up to the 2nd mezzanine area for the fitness center. I must say they have the best set of workout equipment for a hotel gym. I did my legs day routine here as well as a little cardio before leaving for the night as I had to fetch my sister at the airport.

The men's regular and volcanic hot springs at the Onsen Spa
The men’s regular and volcanic hot springs at the Onsen Spa

I’m Onsen Spa

I’m Hotel’s I’m Onsen Spa is the first and biggest onsen spa in the country. It occupies 6 stories of the building with corresponding rooms and treatments on designated floors. There’s the oriental style Bloom restaurant at the 4th floor for the included buffet. We got in our preferred schedule and went to 2nd floor to change to our Japanese yukata. They have separate sections for men and women. The 2nd floor also have the showers, steam and sauna room. The lockers also use proximity keys. The onsen has two sections. The large onsen utilizes technology that mimics the minerals of traditional Japanese Hot Spring. The smaller spring has volcanic and sulfuric content. The staff recommends switching from both hot springs staying only up to 5 minutes on the volcanic spring then dipping on the other hot spring. And in Japanese tradition, you have to be bare naked to enjoy the onsen. I tried the onsen a few minutes before my massage and enjoyed the permeating heat.

Lounging in my yukata
Lounging in my yukata

The massage was on the upper floor. We were asked to wait at the lounging room with comfy chairs and free oolong hot tea. We were led to our individual massage rooms with dim lighting and enclosed only by curtains. I like the ambiance and music. For me who enjoys having regular massages, their massage was good but could be better. Even at past 1am in the morning, we were able to make it for the final call for the buffet at Bloom to enjoy some hot pot before retiring for the night.

Afternoon coffee with the city skyline view
Afternoon coffee with the city skyline view

The I’m Hotel Experience

Luxurious room, top notch facilities, great food, wonderful spa and convenient location makes I’m Hotel an attractive choice for the grandeur traveler. An overnight stay wouldn’t do much justice here to enjoy the full experience.. Honestly if I didn’t have a meeting the next day, I would stayed here until check out time to enjoy the facilities.

Follow I’m Hotel at

Facebook /imhotelph
Instagram @imhotelph
Twitter @imhotelph
Web www.imhotel.com

Good location at the corner of Kalayaan and Makati avenue
Good location at the corner of Kalayaan and Makati avenue
At the 1 BR Executive suite
At the 1 BR Executive suite
Brillo pour-over coffee and cookies at I'm Hotel
Brillo pour-over coffee and cookies at I’m Hotel
The bathroom
The bathroom
They have the best set of gym equipment in a hotel
They have the best set of gym equipment in a hotel
Single massage area
Single massage area
Filipino and international cuisine at their breakfast buffet
Filipino and international cuisine at their breakfast buffet
Enjoy the vibrant pool area
Enjoy the vibrant pool area
The Mermaid dining area
The Mermaid dining area
Witness the sunrise over Makati
Witness the sunrise over Makati

The post Stay | I’m Hotel: 5 Star Luxury in Makati and the First Onsen Spa in the Country appeared first on Ironwulf En Route.

Batanes | Diura Fishing Village: Languid Morning and Tracing the Archaic

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Sunrise at the Diura Fishing Village
Sunrise at the Diura Fishing Village

Oh I am so looking forward to this. After days of hiking around Batanes, and recently a couple of daily hikes in Itbayat I was yearning for a place quiet to rest and recharge. I am excited to spend a night in Diura, an idyll fishing village in a quiet cove, east of Mahatao. I had been to Diura Fishing Village several times but haven’t tried spending a night. I wanted to take sunrise photos at the bay so being there would be advantageous. Our boat for Basco from Itbayat should have left already 2 hours ago. But I had to wait for 2 cows and 2 pigs on the boat. The sudden malfunction on the crane to hoist the cows added to the agonizing wait. I guess its just a little more time to endure for that much awaited repose.

Staying at Monica's Cottage in Diura
Staying at Monica’s Cottage in Diura

Diura Fishing Village

Disembarking at Basco port, I immediately headed to Monica’s Canteen and Catering along Amboy St. I’m quite familiar with Monica since she  used to work in a lodging in Basco I frequent. She has a place in Diura where I remember bringing some of our Backpack Photography participants before. Now she had put up her own own business and from the looks of it, its booming. She invited me to stay at their new place at the Diura Fishing Village. She said they’re still fixing it up but hadn’t time to manage. I said sure, I don’t mind. I just needing a bed, a roof in my head and a place to do a few days worth of laundry.

Aldrin of Monica’s was kind enough to drive me to Diura riding his tricycle with open side-car. It was cool even under the mid-day sun. Road conditions really have improved in Batanes. Almost all roads are paved now. We entered the familiar Diura Fishing Village. A lighthouse now stands there, a small electronic one not the grand picturesque stone and concrete lighthouse.

I remember Monica’s old cottage on the upper street level of Diura where people would occasionally don traditional Ivatan garbs for pictorial. Monica’s new place is two houses up higher just being the small chapel of the village. Aldrin quickly made up the place, replacing the bed sheets, sweeping the floor and securing the windows. I could see that sometimes they themselves go here as well as some of their toiletries and even condiments are here. Aldrin tells me they do go relax here sometimes. And after opening up the windows, who couldn’t relax here? Framed is Mt Irayat, Madi Bay and the houses below. I heated water, prepared myself coffee and sat by the window and loose myself watching the afternoon go by.

Tataya by the shore
Tataya by the shore

Madi Bay Sunrise

The windows were left open while I slept. I could see the small village illuminated by the full moon. It was breezy and cool that I slept comfortably until my alarm sounded around 3:30AM. Days are longer this time of June. By 4:00AM I could already see colors forming in the sky. I got my equipment ready and started to walk towards the shore. I didn’t need to hurry. What a convenience. I see the lighthouse signaling light across the bay. I found myself a good spot, anticipating where the sun would rice.

I could hear the pebble rumble near the shore as the waves pull back at sea. Slowly the light was at play and the clouds seems prancing away from the horizon. I think it was the best light and weather condition I had shot on this place. As early as 5:00 AM I could already see Mataws (fishermen) attending to their Tatayas (small Batanes boats without outriggers). It’s past their official fishing season for Arayu (mahi-mahi or dorado) from April to May but some fishermen still fish for other kinds like dibang (flying fish).

Prized dorado hanging out to dry under the sun
Prized dorado hanging out to dry under the sun

To the Spring of Youth

Returned to my lodging and prepared myself noodles, with bread and coffee for breakfast. It was still early but I wanted to walk around the village. It still is the same with Diura Fishing Village I know except that now some houses has been turned into lodging/homestay cottages. There’s another catering business aside from Monica’s. Houses still have plenty of dorado hanging out to dry since the fishing season recently ended. I walk past a few students heading to school. There’s a small grade school here near the pigpens. It doesn’t smell though. Probably because of the sea breeze.

The road to Raku-a-idi Spring or popularly known as Spring of Youth (sometimes called Fountain of Youth) is well paved with half of the way already cemented. I think motorbikes or even tricycles can reach the stone stairs leading to the spring about a kilometer walk from the village. I enjoyed the walk nonetheless as the higher the trail goes, I could see the vastness of Diura’s cove.

The ancient columnar rocks at Riacoyde
The ancient columnar rocks at Riacoyde

Age-old Beliefs

What fascinated me more as I go down the stone steps where the numerous columnar stones with precisely cut holes. I have seen those at idjang particularly in Savidug but here, they are scattered at the fringes leading to the spring. These columnar stones are signs of early settlement. What they are there for is still being figured out. Are they used as tools or as religious symbols? Who knows but it may also be the root for the mataw’s belief in the Diura Fishing Village. The kapayvanuvanua ritual to start the arayu fishing season to protect the fishermen and the magical aqua-colored beads called mutin.

The Spring of Youth is at a place they call Riacoyde. It is not as bare as I last visited the place. Cottages, bamboo benches, restrooms and a man-made pool is now there. The pool doesn’t have water though so I made do bathing at the small basin on where the spring flows. People here believe that the water has healing properties. Not really sure if that was true. I did had a refreshing time there by my lonesome enjoying its clear cool waters. Oh it was a good idea to stay overnight here in Diura. I feel revitalized.

Afternoon view at Monica's Cottage
Afternoon view at Monica’s Cottage

Essential Info

Diura Fishing Village is 3km from the town of Mahatao. From Basco, BATODA tricycles (0929.703.8404) can take you there for Php 200 one way. There are no tricycles in Diura but nearby tricycles from Mahatao (MATODA 0930.373.2854) can fetch passengers and bring them to Basco for Php 200 as well.

For overnight stay in Diura, you can try Monica’s Cottage. Contact 0908.505.4765 or 0999.553.1738. There are food catering services in Diura but can be expensive. Better bring your own food. There’s a lone store near the entrance of the village.

View of Diura from the upper trail to Riacoyde
View of Diura from the upper trail to Riacoyde
Enjoying the morning with a yoga pose at Diura
Enjoying the morning with a yoga pose at Diura
Refreshing dip at the Spring of Youth
Refreshing dip at the Spring of Youth

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Stay | Batanes Pension Ivatan: From Hometel to Boutique Hotel

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Pension Ivatan at night
Pension Ivatan at night

In a span of a decade, I can say I am seeing how Batanes transform. Recently, accommodations are on the rise to cater to the increasing number of tourist in the country’s smallest province up north. While new ones are being built or old homes converted into homestay, a long-time establishment asserts its place in Basco. Pension Ivatan, a small hometel with a restaurant known to serve Ivatan cuisines is already considered an institution. I have seen the trend of dining options come and go in Batanes but this is one of those that has stayed ever since I remember.

The iconic Ivatan Platter
The iconic Ivatan Platter

Pension Ivatan

In 2006, Tess Valiente, a Tuguearao native with Pampangueño roots was married to an Itbayat native Raffy. Pension Ivatan was also born in the same year with the vision to offer the best of Ivatan Cuisine in Batanes. Tess brought her entrepreneurial skills to Batanes having owned and managed her Ybanag restaurant, Kusina Cagayana in Tuguegarao since 2001. She researched and learned the ways of Ivatan cooking from the elders. Tess later added delightful twists to the recipes, slightly refining the flavors, by using premium ingredients sourced outside the island while still retaining the essence of Ivatan Cuisine. Wanting guests to get a delicious introduction to the flavors of the islands, Tess created the Ivatan Platter, a dish sampling of native Ivatan favorites all in one platter. Until today, the offering is synonymous to Pension Ivatan.

Enjoying my room 211
Enjoying my room 211

From Hometel to Boutique Hotel

I first discovered Pension Ivatan when I was waiting for my flight back to Manila more than five years ago. I tried their tasty and savory luñis (Ivatan’s version of adobo). Their resto was conveniently steps away from the airport. In the several times I had visited Batanes, I had the chance to stay at their small hometel built like one of those Ivatan stonehouses.

Of course, Tess’s dream is to make Pension Ivatan even better. In two year’s time, she had her restaurant temporarily relocated while the construction is being done on their property near the airport. After all the hard work and much like birthing pains of a new endeavor, the new Pension Ivatan finally opened this May 2017.

The new Pension Ivatan is an eye-catching two-story building near the airport. It has elements inspired by the Ivatan stone houses and a large lighthouse bas relief on its facade. The second floor houses 11 spacious rooms. I was able to check them out and liked the use of different pastel colored walls, simple yet elegant design accented by paintings. The wall lighting kept to the theme. In estimate, the smallest room they have is around 30sqm. The bathrooms are also large with strong running water. Deluxe rooms have their own blowers and make-up mirrors. I stayed at 211 near the balcony and I enjoyed the space sans the LCD TV that’s still on the way from Manila.

The rooftop isn’t finished yet which would then be their grill dining area. For the moment, the views of Basco and Mt Iraya greets the visitors at the rooftop.

Lobby and restaurant reception
Lobby and restaurant reception

Still the Home of Ivatan Cuisine

On the first floor is the restaurant area for Pension Ivatan. They still serve their all time favorite dishes but on a more upscale setting. Their dining area is now air-conditioned and I like their choice of wooden furnitures. Breakfast buffet is also offered. I really enjoyed their crispy longanisa which they make in-house for breakfast. Food offerings for the buffet changes daily.

Pension Ivatan have really stepped up to become an upscale boutique hotel. Somehow the word “Pension” no longer fits them but I guess its a way to look back at its roots. Like Batanes, this establishment has changed for the times. But despite the change of appearance it still has the old favorites in its heart – Ivatan cuisine and the people’s warmness in its service.

Facade of Pension Ivatan
Facade of Pension Ivatan

Pension Ivatan
Facebook: /batanespensionivatan/
Web: www.batanespensionivatan.com
Contact: 0939.957.0222 / 0995.209.1805

Hotel reception at the second floor
Hotel reception at the second floor
Restaurant dining area
Restaurant dining area
Rooftop which will soon become the grill area
Rooftop which will soon become the grill area

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Echague | Exploring the Madadamian Falls Circuit

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Mada Falls in Madadamian, Echague
Mada Falls in Madadamian, Echague

As the second largest province in the Philippines, Isabela seems less explored. Maybe the places are far between that it takes considerable time to explore them. Or municipalities are cut-off by the Sierra Madre mountains like coastal villages Maconacon, Divilacan or Palanan that it takes a plane ride to get there. When an invitation to explore Echague, one of the municipalities of Isabela, came in, I immediately took the offer. Exploring new places is always exciting whatever I may find there. In this case, Echague is getting ready to showcase their eco-tourism attraction, the Madadamian Falls. A network of falls and streams found within the lush forest region of Echague.

River trail and passing through a bamboo forest
River trail and passing through a bamboo forest

Getting to know Echague

The overnight municipal-owned bus took only seven hours to roll in at the municipal grounds of Echague coming from Balintawak. We found ourselves stretching out and yawning to wake at the NIA Building where the Municipal Cultural and Tourism Office is located. The building also houses the LGU-operated hostel.

Echague is about 380km from Manila. Buses headed to Cagayan passes by this southern municipality of Isabela. Quirino is close by down south. Their main agriculture is corn, pineapple and cocoa. Echague used to be known as Camarag (name of the tree common in the area) and is home to the minority group Yogad tribe.

A shower type falls along the trail
Allan enjoying this shower type falls along the trail

Madadamian Falls Circuit

Tourism is still being developed in Echague and the Madadamian Falls is one of the key attractions the municipality is looking into. This was an exploration trip with the local tourism. We rode an elf truck for Baranggay Madadamian which is 32km away east of the municipality. To say the road is rough is an understatement. The ride shook us up rigorously along the wide rolling hills of corn and pineapple fields. In an hour we reached Madadamian proper where we met with the Kapitan Redgie and our guides. Fully equipped with ropes, bolo and belly full, we were ready to hike and explore.

Kara of Travel-up enjoying a falls at the end of a canyon
Kara of Travel-up enjoying a falls at the end of a canyon

Falls to Falls

Kapitan’s place is still about 2km from Madadamian proper. Heavy duty jeeps and trucks are the only transportation that can handle the road here and they go to the capitol only once a day. For the Madadamian Falls, we left the main road and passed through several corn fields until we descended where a river flows. From there we passed by a few cascades and falls. We could see the trail isn’t established yet and our guides had to hack their way through some of them.

They said Madadamian has at least 18 falls but some we passed by I wouldn’t really consider as falls. There are two main falls though, Mada and Damian, named from the two Negrito lovers who met in the baranggay on what used to be called Vill Dim. For this exploration though, our end point was Mada Falls. A lot of the cascades or falls we passed by have no names yet.

One of the many mini streams/falls on the trail
One of the many mini streams/falls on the trail

Nature Trail

The river hike were along shallow waters. Turned murky from our disturbance of the soil below. In the forest and river trail, the key sites I liked were the bamboo forest trail, the miniature canyon-like passages especially with a falls enclosed in and the dense forest. Mada Falls was the highest in the initial circuit at 18 meters with a natural pool. There are other falls further but it takes longer to hike.

It took us four hours to go through the trail leading to Mada Falls. My GPS estimates about 6km of trail in varying elevation as high as 820 feet. We passed through several falls and roping up low cliffs and cascades to go through the trail. The beauty of this area is the unspoiled forest. Don’t be surprised if you encounter snakes here like we did. A couple in fact, one more that 12feet long and another about 8 feet. So its important to have a guide with you when exploring this area.

Another small falls as side trip to the main Mada Falls
Another small falls as side trip to the main Mada Falls

Essential Info

The LGU of Echague still have a lot to work on to develop the Madadamian Falls circuit. There’s potential in the area if done right. If you love nature and enjoy tramping in the forest, this place would be a good side-trip if you are ever in Isabela or the nearby Quirino.

To visit the Madadamian Falls circuit contact the Municipal Cultural and Tourism Office:

NIA Building, Municipal Ground,
Provincial Road, San Fabian,
Echague, Isabela 3309
Contact: (078) 305.5159

To go to Echague, ride a bus heading to Tuguegarao and asked to be dropped off at Isabela State University in Echague. Victory Liner and Five Star buses pass through Echague. Travel time is at least 8-hours. Fare is Php 400.

Tips: The trail is new and is still being developed so it can be real challenging. Some portions will require ropes which the guide will bring. Make sure you have good river trek foot wear. Trial can also be really muddy if it rians.

Through the canyon and enjoying the falls at the Madadamian Falls circuit
Through the canyon and enjoying the falls at the Madadamian Falls circuit

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Echague | Home of the Yogad Tribe

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The yogad tribe bayle de bakal performers
The yogad tribe bayle de bakal performers

I’m ashamed to say that when they said we’ll be meeting one of the smallest minority group in Isabela, I was thinking they were some remote tribes still wearing their traditional garbs similar to the Dumagats. The Yogad tribe in Echague, Isabela is quite different. They were wearing old Spanish style costumes in bright blue and red colors. They have small mirrors attached strategically at the front and back. They have swords and seem to be ready for battle. They did not come from deep into the mountains nor live by the sea. They sailed all the way from Mindanao many decades ago but today are facing extinction as an indigenous group.

Profile of a Yogad
Profile of a Yogad

Yoga for the Yogad Tribe

It’s funny that I came to know of the Yogad tribe through the International Yoga Event celebration in Echague, Isabela. However synonymous they sound, they are not related. They are not a tribe who do Yoga. The Yogad history roots back even before Echague was used to called Camarag, named after a tree common in the area.

According to one of the Yogads I spoke, they originally came from Mindanao which is evident by their colorful garbs similar to the Sama people of Tawi-tawi and Sulu. The Yogad have physical features similar to Indonesians, brown-colored skin with deep set eyes, males are usually stocky and well-built due to being natural hunters. They are also warriors which the Spaniards had trouble conquering before so they made them the elites of the society. They have a proud demeanor and always insist on being “right”.

Bayle de bakal performance
Bayle de bakal performance

Yogad Tribe Traditions and Beliefs

Our visit to Echague Isabela also coincides with Isabela’s Tilamsikan Festival. An art event where performers from various countries share the stage with local artist to perform in key locations in Isabela. The humble, unfinished amphitheater of Echague was one of the stages. While I was awed by the mesmerizing performance from the Indonesian guest, our showcase of Yogad tribe piqued my interest.

The Yoga Warrior dance, Bayle de Bakal showcased their fighting moves. It was like a coordinated sparring and gave me answers on why they have mirrors on their garbs. It was for the warriors to see enemies from different directions when fighting as a group. The performance was raw and unpolished but the cast was enthusiastic on showing the dance sequence which is also a dying tradition among the Yogads since there is no formal lessons to pass this art to the youngsters.

Nanay Melba performs the Ritwal ng Banca
Nanay Melba performs the Ritwal ng Banca

Ritual of the Boat

The Yogads are animist by nature, only recently that some of them converted to Christianity. They still practice some of the traditions until now. Nanay Melba Mangadap Flores, a Yogad healer, demonstrated one of their healing traditions called the Ritwal ng Banca (Ritual of the Boat). It is synonymous to the Yogads journey by boat to where they live now. The banca ritual takes two days. The first day is when Nanay Melba makes a miniature boat which they call dakit. She said no one is allowed to create the boat than a healer. They can copy it but the Oracion (prayer) is necessary while doing the boat. Nanay Melba told me that someone tried to copy the boat but end up being crazy after. The dakit is colorful to make it attractive to the roaming spirits.

There were offerings laid out as well which she calls Panyaman. It contains a mix of items from yellow rice topped with an egg, nganga (betel nut), tobacco and suman (sticky rice). The healer would do a dance with the boat while singing a sacred song, passing it on to the one with the ailment. During the ritual, the healer would fall into a state of trance. It is believed that a spirit invaded the healer’s body to diagnose the sick, heal and catches the spirit causing the disease. This spirit would then be trapped into the boat. The next day, the dakit would be sent-off to the river along with the spirit causing the disease which would eventually heal the person with the ailment.

The old Spanish convent in Echague
The old Spanish convent in Echague

Echague History

The Yogad tribe played a significant role in Echague’s history and also their transition to Christianity. The old Spanish convent now renovated stands one of the landmarks of Christianity. It displays the vintage Spanish Bells dating as far back as 1879. I think there is still more to delve deep on the culture and traditions of the Yogad Tribe. Echague would benefit on documenting and preserving their traditions to keep them alive. It could also be one of the cultural attractions of the province.

The dakit and panyaman offerings for the boat ritual
The dakit and panyaman offerings for the boat ritual
The whole bayle de bakal Yogad performers
The whole bayle de bakal Yogad performers
The staircase and the vintage bells at the Old Spanish Convent
The staircase and the vintage bells at the Old Spanish Convent

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Itbayat | Rapang Cliffs and Stone Bell: Otherworldy Landscape

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Sunrise at Rapang Cliffs
Sunrise at Rapang Cliffs

The summer solstice extended the days in the country. But here in Batanes, the days felt a lot longer. 4:11 AM the sky was already showing shades of blue. The milky way slowly dissolves into the sky over at Mt Riposed. The purple glow brightens and unveils the landscape. We were at the sunrise point of Rapang Cliffs. I climbed on some sharp limestone rocks to get a better view near the cliffs. As soon as I saw the view behind the high rocks, my jaw dropped in amazement. I never thought Batanes could mesmerize me anew, but the landscape near the northern edge of the country just did.

Fading milky way over Mt Riposed
Fading milky way over Mt Riposed

Back in Itbayat

Going back to Itbayat, Rapang Cliffs was on top of my things to do. I had been to Itbayat several times already and haven’t been there as well as to other places on Batanes largest island. Itbayat is an expensive place to go around in. Aside from the sites being far apart, transportation and commodities cost a lot more. The reason, they are transported from Basco so goods are weighed in with additional cost. Same for the fuel. One major change since I last visited here is that electricity is now 24 hours and most of the roads are paved now. Electrical wirings are also being laid out underground which is practical to avoid falling electric poles during storms.

My Itbayat guide, Jojo
My Itbayat guide, Jojo

Cano’s Lodge and Jojo

I go back to the familiar homestay of Nanay Cano. I remember her clearly as I had stayed here three times already. She no longer remember me though, which I could understand from the many guest she had. Nanay Cano already have a script for guest, showing her map and insightful info about Itbayat which she knows at heart since she was a tourism officer here before. But since I’m a previous visitor, I somehow interrupted her flow. I let her indulge a bit on her interesting trivia again which I remember I heard before but still found fascinating.

Kuya Jojo Labrador drove me to the homestay from the port using his ever reliable 7-year old bike. I contacted him as my guide for this trip. He came in highly recommended from friends at the Yaru Gallery. He has also guided several photographers here. So he won’t have that confused and wondering look when I ask him we go to Rapang Cliffs in the dark.

Enjoying the sunrise
Enjoying the sunrise

Trek to Rapang Cliffs

True to his word, Jojo was already at the gate of our homestay by 2:30AM. His bike that has recently gone through a tune up from his trusted mechanic got some new parts that extended its life and reliability. Ascends and downhills are steady but I must commend Jojo’s skill in motorbike. I had my share of motorbike accidents but he makes it look easy.

The road to the jump-off for Rapang Cliffs is narrow but already paved and has a deep descent before we reach a wooden gate. From there, it was hike all the way. In the darkness, I could make out the height of the trees. They were tall, about 20–30 feet high. The dirt path was stony and some portions where soil and grass meet were squishy. I just followed Jojo’s lead, going up and down and around rocky paths. It wasn’t that hard. More like a long walk. At some point we encountered a large crab on the trail. I joked to Jojo that we have food here. Immediately he tried to catch it. Found a rope from his bag and tied the crab that it can’t use its pincers nor move its legs. He shoot it in his bag and we went on.

Finger-like rock formations where the name of the place came from

Sunrise Splendor

We were early at the sunrise spot. An estimate from my GPS tracker, it took us 1 hour and 17 minutes to reach the spot where we are now. That’s 1.9km from the jump-off point. Jojo decided to take a rest since he attended a wake the night before. I tried shooting what’s left of the milky way above Mt Riposed before moving to the spot near the cliffs.

Upon seeing the landscaped hiding behind the rocky walls, I was filled with wonder and amazement. The same feeling of seeing Batanes again for the first time. The vast fields of sloping greens stretching to the pacific ocean. The landscape interrupted by the rugged wall where I sit in awe. Everything was bathed in purple hue light gradually warming up as the sun rises. I could see the far island of Mavulis and Siayan on my left hoping one day I could visit them. On my right, a knife-edge like cliff leads to the enchanted D’nem island.

Trail to the stone bell
Trail to the stone bell

Sound of the Stone Bell

I almost got lost in the moment of sunrise there. I realized there were more to explore. We made our way down to the landscape below. From a lower vantage point, the Rapang Cliffs looks like a giant hand giving a high-five to the sky with small fingers wriggling out. Jojo say it’s where the place got its name “Karaparapangan” which means fingers.

We followed a single-man trail along the grasslands that lead to the stone-bell. It looks like they were intentionally put on top of another stone. It’s fascinating how it produces a bell-like sound. Jojo tells me the farmers use it to call their cattle. Prior to that, I read that earlier times, they use it as warning for incoming invaders. For Jojo, it was a play thing for kids. They would throw large stones from up the cliffs competing on who makes the loudest sound when it hits.

Jojo at the stone bell
Jojo at the stone bell

Rapang Trail in Light

The vastness just makes me feel like a speck in this landscape. The morning sun making the shadows deeper, making the place more alive than it is. Verdant to its limits. we made our way around the spike of the cliffs to get behind it and passed by this small watering hole where grazing cattle and horses hydrate or dip. Then we climbed up to the highest point of the cliffs. I was fighting my knees not to turn jelly while looking down at the cliff edge. A limestone wall covered by plants. Yet I found myself sitting by there again as per instruction from Jojo who also seems to know the best angles to take. Enjoying the view 400 feet above sea level.

We walk back to the trail we went and at some point was surprised on the views we passed by. This includes the cliffside walk where we looked down on a small beach caused by an erosion. The site is called Kaxobcan. The water was inviting blue but swimming near the beach is not allowed as land may erode anytime. I would have freaked out if I saw this trail in daylight.

The sun was getting high. It was a good decision to hike here early. I can imagine how it would be for mid-day visit. Rapang Cliffs re-awakened what I love about Batanes, its rugged otherwordly beauty near the northern edge of our country.

At the watering hole
At the watering hole

Essential Information

Rapang Cliffs and the Stone Bell is a natural park. A guide here is a must as the area is so vast it’s easy to get lost. I highly recommend Jojo Labrador (+63920.660.3801) a highly experienced guide familiar to photographer quirks. If he’s not available, he can recommend the other four guides on the island who are also highly capable.

Fees: Guide fee is Php 1,000 per group of 1–4. It is cheaper to go by group as individuals would have to pay full amount. A separate transportation fee of Php 500 for a single motor bike per person. Going and return from Mayon Centro, Itbayat.

Tips for hiking Rapang Cliffs:

  • I recommend mornings to catch the sunrise and the light is less harsh
  • Hike back and forth can take 5–6 hours depending on the pace. It is possible to hike early morning and be back in town by 7 or 8am to catch the boat back to Basco.
  • Wear good footwear. Flip-flops are not recommended.
  • Bring torch or flashlight for early hikes.
  • Bring at least 1 liter of water and trail snacks
Ridge overlooking Dinem island
Ridge overlooking Dinem island
Going to the highest point of the Rapang Cliffs
Going to the highest point of the Rapang Cliffs
At 400 feet above sea level
At 400 feet above sea level
View of the beach at Kaxobcan
View of the beach at Kaxobcan
Goat grazing ground we passed by on our way back at the jump-off point
Goat grazing ground we passed by on our way back at the jump-off point

 

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Batanes: Postcards from Sabtang Island

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The Nakabuang Natural Arc
The Nakabuang Natural Arc, one of the distinct landmarks in Sabtang

It was the peak season alright for Holy Week in Batanes and our trip almost  didn’t push through but thank God (and Seair) for helping us secure our flights. Albeit shortened, we made do with our time, maximizing moments to take photos and enjoy the scenery. I’ve written about Batanes so many times already in this blog so I’ll just share some memorable takes during our recent Backpack Photography 3-Island Photo Tour. These ones from the small but charming Sabtang Island.

Navigating feet at the boat to Sabtang
Navigating feet at the boat to Sabtang

Day one finds us scampering to Sabtang Island once we set foot in Batanes. From our ever reliable lodging and friends at DDD Habitat Batanes, we were whisked away to Ivana Port where our boat was already waiting. The 45-plus so minutes ride was smooth. Our boatman is already so used to these waters he can navigate over them using his feet.

A familiar face in Savidug Village
A familiar face in Savidug Village

Savidug Village was our first stop and familiar faces pops up the corner. Like this old lady Aling Lucy who was found her way to our photos before inside her house, still smiling after all this time.

St Dominic Church and a stone house in Savidug
St Dominic Church and a stone house in Savidug

The white-washed and petite St Dominic Church stood out of the green and blue sunny backdrop that it looked bigger than it actually is. But more attention to the stone house beside it as participants took some posterity shots there. The stone house villages in Batanes were nominated before for UNESCO but unfortunately the village won’t make the list because the new houses and structures no longer follow the traditional methods stone houses were built. Even the restoration was inappropriate. Sad but it’s still a charming and quiet seaside village.

Even the mid-day sun won't stop us from enjoying Tiñan Hills
Even the mid-day sun won’t stop us from enjoying Tiñan Hills

Probably one of my favourite spot in Sabtang is the Tiñan Hills Viewpoint in Chamantad, it never fails to take me or our guests drool in amazement. The peak height of the sun was not enough to stop us from venturing over the hills and enjoy the view.

The oldest man living in Sabtang
The oldest man living in Sabtang Mang Marcelo with her daughter Ate Fely
Mang Marcello still busy with his basket making
Mang Marcello still busy with his basket making

The cove-sheltered town of Chavayan is usually our rest stop. This picturesque village is also home to the oldest man residing in Sabtang, Mr Marcello Hostallero. Born July 16, 1907, he doesn’t look any close to the age of 105. He is still alert, keen on his senses and sharp on his craftwork. The secret to his longevity? Eating healthy, good exercise and good sex! Marcelo has 15 children, got married at the age of 21 with his wife at the age of 14.

Tubho leaves and coffee
Tubho leaves and coffee

Another secret to his long life are these special Tubho leaves the residents drink as part of their daily diet. They make coffee out of these leaves which they harvest in far-flung mountainous area of the island. It may be the nutrients in these leaves or the combination of the long walk to procure them that has contributed to their long life-span. Ate Fely, his daughter, at her age is strong still despite being a grandmother already.

Ate Fely with her vakul
Ate Fely with her vakul headwear and basket

Our lunch stop is at the beautiful beach of Nakanmuan with its distinct arc. It was a struggle to head out to shoot already as our lunch of crabs, lobster and unforgettable Luñes adobo was worth taking time to savour. But as soon as we were satiated, it was time to fill our senses on this one of a kind spot in Sabtang.

lovely trees in Nakabuang beach
lovely trees in Nakabuang beach

We originally planned to stay overnight here but with our trip cut short of 2 days, we only had to spend a day here. Oh yeah, also noticed this new option of travel in Sabtang Island if one is exploring on your own or a couple, this powerful tricycles with roofs made of cogon are now available for hire. Sabtang is such a charming little island like these kids.

Sabtang Kids on a cogon-roofed Tricycle
Sabtang Kids on a cogon-roofed Tricycle

Join us in our next 3-Island Hop Backpack Photography Batanes this August. Check the details at www.backpackphotography.net

The post Batanes: Postcards from Sabtang Island appeared first on Ironwulf En Route.

Batanes: Awed at Torongan Cave and Hills, Itbayat Island

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Literally breath taking view at Torongan Hills Itbayat Island
Breath taking view at Torongan Hills Itbayat Island

The view of the Pacific Ocean, the deep jagged cliffs from the island where I’m standing and Dinem Island, cutting through the ocean like a knife’s edge was stupendous. Here at the farthest inhabitable, northern island of Itbayat, I’m just lost for words on how I can describe the beauty I’m seeing from Torongan Hills. If I had my way, I can spend an idle afternoon here just looking at the sea and passing clouds. It was one of those moments that I’m so proud of the Philippines for having places like this.

the 1.5km easy hike in a short cut to the cave
the 1.5km easy hike in a short cut to the cave

We took a dump truck to take us to the jump-off point to Torongan Cave which is about an hour away. There was a 1.5 km hike towards the cave entrance.  The hike itself was pretty scenic amongst surreal growth of trees and vegetation parallel to a stream. It wasn’t also that difficult along gradual slopes and careful descent on rock boulders. In about an hour, we reached the huge cave entrance. It looks spectacular with dramatic stalactites adorning the mouth of the cave.

Finding the mouth of Torongan Cave
Finding the mouth of Torongan Cave
Our participants carefully making their way down the cave grounds
Our participants carefully making their way down the cave grounds

We carefully made our way down the ground of the huge cavern and felt the cold draft of air coming from the other side. There were walls of stones there which our guide said were already there when they found them. Probably signs of ancient dwellings believed to be from Austronesians who migrated here about 4000 years ago coming from Taiwan. We reached a high mound inside the cave where we could view a large opening with the view of the sea. It feels like we were inside a whale’s belly looking out from its mouth.

the wall blocks are signs of Ancient Settlement in the cave
the wall blocks are signs of Ancient Settlement in the cave
The cave opening leading to the sea
The cave opening leading to the sea

From the cave mouth we had a very short climb to reach the hills on top of the cave and the scene seemed to have been transformed into an epic backdrop of a fantasy movie up rugged mountains where dragons fly and Vikings clash swords. It was amazing up there.

Heading to the hills
Heading to the hills
Participants near the cliff edges with Dinem Island
Participants near the cliff edges with Dinem Island

Burial sites from the ancient settlements can also be found here. There were about 7 burial mounds there shaped like a boat pointing to the sea. Some are already hard to distinguish from the regular rocks and the remains were no longer found there. The seafaring Austronesians believed that these boat-shaped graves would lead their departed spirits to the other life safely.

Itbayat Island is one big coral island
Itbayat Island is one big coral island
At the Burial grounds
At the Burial grounds

It was already late in the afternoon when we started our way back. Most of us can’t help but look back at the scene that has captured our senses. We could see the hills and the cave mouth from afar. We marched on the dying light, yes that rough boat ride coming here was now a side memory. Seeing this place was worth the daunting sea journey.

Heading back
Heading back

Join us on our next 3-Island Hop Backpack Photography Photo Tour in Batanes this August. Check out www.backpackphotography.net

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Batanes: Sunrise at Mt Karoboboan and Sidetrip to Paganaman Port

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Tree and Sun at Mt Karoboboan
Tree and Sun at Mt Karoboboan

We marvelled at the stars, shining plentifully at the sky. Something we don’t see in an urban night. We played around with the star-gazer on our phones figuring out the constellations, the position of the stars in the wee hours of the morning while waiting for our dump truck service to arrive. Despite the gizmos in our hands, there was no electricity in Itbayat at 4am as it runs from noon to 12 midnight only. We were headed to one of the mountains in the island, Mt Karoboboan. Usual program from tourism here is they take people to the peak at sunset. But since we didn’t have time the day before, we decided to go on a sunrise.

The hut at the viewpoint
The hut at the viewpoint

Mt Karoboboan stands only at 500 277meters above sea level. A dump truck would be able to take us to the peak. The ride took us less than an hour, enough to catch the sunrise at the summit. There was a fenced area that looked like a nice garden with a platform made of wood as a lookout point. There’s also a nice hut where people can have a picnic. It was really charming.

An HDR of Tina shooting using my mobile phone
An HDR of Tina shooting using my mobile phone

It was one of those places where the view looks really amazing but capturing it was another thing. We challenged our participants to look for a good foreground to lead the eyes to the scenic sunrise. We also had a breakfast with neatly packed meals wrapped in tipoho leaves. Inside was a hefty serving of rice with pork, fish and with egg. We happily ate at the hut with the cold wind and calming surroundings at the peak of Mt Karoboboan.

Tree, mountains, sun layers study
Tree, mountains, sun layers study

We got back at Cano’s Lodge and got ready to make our way to Chinapoliran Port for our boat back to Batan Island. Since there was still time, we made a side-trip to Paganaman Port. A favourite spot of mine as we could see the fishermen here lift their boats on and off the steep platform of the port. There were also fishermen just hanging by the cliffs waiting for their prey to take a bite at their line.

Putting the boat to sea
Putting the boat to sea at Paganaman Port

The ride back to Batan Island was a lot smoother than our first ride. We got a lot of floor space to lie around and sleep. It was also much faster that we arrived just ahead of time in the afternoon. Again, even after being in Itabayat several times already, I felt that there are still more that I haven’t seen. Like the islands seen north of the islands. Another excuse to go back again.

Line fishing along the cliffs
Line fishing along the cliffs

 

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Batanes: Postcards from Batan Island

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The moody morning landscape at Diura
The moody morning landscape at Diura

No doubt the most visited island in Batanes is Batan Island, the landing point for any plane coming in this northernmost region in the country. The provincial capital, Basco is also located in the island making it as a starting point for exploration. I have written extensively about the places in Batan Island already so I won’t be repeating much aside from some updates and new site takes from our recent Backpack Photography 3-Island Hop in Batanes. But don’t get me wrong, even if I’ve been here several times already, the views still never fails to amaze me.

Capturing the sunset at Vayang Rolling Hills
Capturing the sunset at Vayang Rolling Hills
The road overlooking Naidi Hills
The road overlooking Naidi Hills

Day 1, arriving from our Island Hop in Sabtang Island, we went to one of my favorite spots in Batan Island, the Rolling Hills of Vayang. I’m always amused with the look as first timers are captivated by the scenery. The scene is so vast I think no picture can really justify the immensity one feels being there on the spot.

The Sto Domingo de Basco Cathedral fully restored after a decade
The Sto Domingo de Basco Cathedral fully restored after a decade

Day 3, arriving from our exciting overnight Island hop in Itbayat Island, we now visit the western portion of Batan Island for the sunset. But before that we passed by Basco Church, newly painted and restored to its former glory. It’s the first time I’ve seen Sto Domingo de Basco Church free from scaffolds in and out the church. When the church was damaged back in 2002 from an earthquake, it has been in constant restoration. Finally after 10 years, the scaffolding was removed last March 2012 and it looks brand new but still retaining the old qualities of its original limestone church. The church is also now elevated into a Cathedral status.

Mt Iraya seen from Chadpidan boulder beach
Mt Iraya seen from Chadpidan boulder beach

West of Batan Island is the often overlooked site of Chadpidan. This large boulder beach mirrors the image of its more popular eastern counterpart, the Valugan Boulder Beach. It has the same qualities except for different views. The southern rock formations in the horizon at Chadpidan reminds me of Lakay-lakay in Claveria.

Sunset and soft waters at Chadpidan
Sunset and soft waters at Chadpidan

Morning of day 4 finds us driving before the sun came up in Diura Fishing village as the start of our Batan Island tour. While the onset of rain made itself felt with a light drizzle, we pushed through with the sunrise shoot hoping to get some dramatic moody shots of the weather in turmoil. Breakfast was always a delight at the overlooking dining area at Monica’s Cottage there.

Some BP participants at Diura
Some BP participants at Diura

The nearby Mahatao Lighthouse was literally a stop to just chill, lie back on the grass and enjoy the view. There’s nothing more relaxing with cool fresh wind blowing up high on a hill overlooking Diura Fishing village below.

Chill time at the Mahatao lighthouse
Chill time at the Mahatao lighthouse

There’s the usual stops like the playful slopes of Marlboro Hills, the windswept and iconic hill of Alapad in Imnajbu and then marveling at the crashing waves and steep cliffs at Chanarian Viewdeck. It was a full day but we left time for our participants to have some free time to shop and explore on their own.

Some participants exploring Marlboro Hills
Some participants exploring Marlboro Hills

Our Batanes 3-Island Hop closed that evening with an awesome dinner prepared by the staff at DDD Habitat. It was a night of sharing our favorite images during the trip and recollecting some unforgettable moments and sights that would be clearly be engraved in our memory.

Getting friendly with the goats at Alapad, Imnajbu
Getting friendly with the goats at Alapad, Imnajbu

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