Paloy Cagayat at his workshop in Paete

There’s a distinctive smell of wood amidst the mixture of paint and thinner lingering in the air. I could hear the constant pounding of multiple mallets on chisels carving away pieces of wood to make form to an otherwise large piece of wood. Occasional sawdust fills the air when sudden gust of wind blows through this open air wood carving workshop. Paete Woodcarving has been a thriving industry since the Spanish era until now. A walk at the town’s market road, it is hard not to notice the rows of shops, selling variety of wood work and paper mache. This crafty town of Paete, north-east of Laguna have earned its declaration as the Woodcarving Capital of the Philippines back in 2005. Thanks to proud Paetenians whose generations of wood carvers passed their skills and dedication for elevating the art. Here we meet some of the master woodcarvers that have etched their legacy in the town’s history.

A young woodcarver working meticulously

Paete Woodcarving

The Paete Woodcarving tradition runs deep in history, dating back in the pre-Spanish era. Even the town’s name, Paete, goes away from the Spanish colonizer’s norms of naming places after saints. It was a result of a misunderstanding between a native and a Franciscan priest. When asked what the place was, the native replied, Paete, referring to his chisel. He thought the priest was asking about the tool he was using. By 1580, Paetenians honed their craft by carving retablos and images used to ornate the churches in town and neighboring towns in Laguna.

Portraits of Paloy Cagayat a gem of Paete Woodcarving

Paloy Cagayat

Even at this time, families have continued the tradition Paete woodcarving. One noteable wood carver is Justino “Paloy” Cagayat, Jr. Already 3rd of his generation, his family owns one of the bigger open air  wood carving workshops in Paete. Some of his prominent works are: the image of San Pedro Calungsod, which was brought to Rome for the canonization of the Filipino’s 2nd saint; the paper mache image of Ninoy Aquino, a work commissioned by the former President Corazon Aquino for Ninoy’s 10th Death Anniversary; and Paloy also got commercial fame when he daringly carved the mythical figure “Machete” used in the movies that starred Cesar Montano in 1990 and Gardo Versoza in 1993.

I watch in awe as Paloy worked on one of the religious image he was commissioned fto do. He prefers to use batikuling wood – a soft wood abundant in the Sierra Mountain ranges whose scent naturally repels termites, ants and even wood worms. Occasionally by request, he also works on pricier woods like kamagong or narra. We watch how he manages the shop and his people. He has sharp eyes as minuscule details doesn’t escape him. His workers are his extension, making sure the quality remains.

It would seem Paloy’s influnce on woodcarving has brushed off to the next generation of his family. His son, Franco Cagayat, is making a name for himself in carving model cars and other vehicles. Assuring the Cagayat art will continue on.

For inquiries on Paloy Cagayat’s work contact (+6349) 557.0641

Luis Ac-ac and Angelo Baldemor on the next page…

Paloy is known for his bespoke religious wood works

Hand painting sculpture pieces

Making images of saints

Ornamental pieces

The post Laguna | Paete Woodcarving Capital and its Masters appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

The USS Midway Museum

If there’s one thing I noticed, America is really proud of their military. I don’t think it is mostly about patriotism on their part but giving respect and due to those who served for their country. America invested a lot on their military technology and it follows that it pours through their people. Those in the military, past and present, gets benefits like considerable discounts at establishments to family perks. In my visit to the USA, my brother-in-law, suggested I visit the USS Midway Museum in San Diego. I wasn’t surprised really. To know America is to know its military. Besides, it would be interesting to see the now decommissioned USS Midway (CV–41) aircraft carrier which used to be the largest ship in the world until 1955. It even made its way to the Philippines after its deployment.

The Unconditional Surrender through the trees at the Tuna Harbor Park

First Time in San Diego

I enjoy the drive from Vista to San Diego being new in the state. The traffic scheme here is organized, quite a contrast from chaotic Manila. I’m sure US drivers would be culture shocked when they take on our streets. But nonetheless, the cities aren’t spared from traffic especially at peak hours. We walked at the boulevard along North Harbor drive. It was interesting to see a lot of Americans running mid-day, under the heat of the sun. Probably for them, the tan would be appealing or it makes productive time try to squeeze in some activity during lunch break. I also like how they made efforts to make public utilities more presentable like the restrooms in the boulevard. I did notice that most of the public restrooms doesn’t have mirrors. I was told some thugs would break them so they just don’t put mirrors on those places anymore.

I’m glad to have seen San Diego with my own eyes now. An all too familiar city I kept hearing about simply because there’s a large community of Filipinos living here aside from the Mexicans and Vietnamese. Fact, a lot of my relatives are here too.

The USS Midway Museum ticket counters

Unconditional Surrender

We decided to have a little fun and rented a tandem bike with roof shade to pedal around the street harbor. Our route was to the Tuna Harbor Park. Named after San Diego’s commercial fishing industry, the park has excellent vantage point to view the San Diego Port activities. One landmark that stood out in the park among the many sculptures in the area was the installation called Unconditional Surrender, a 25-foot sculpture made of styrofoam by Seward Johnson. The sculpture was based on a photograph by Victor Jorgensen of two strangers kissing on V-J Day in Times Square (Victory over Japan Day). It definitely was amusing to feel so small beside this gigantic statue. Its location is so appropriate being near another behemoth of a vessel, the USS Midway.

Headset and audio player and a glass floor view

Exploring the USS Midway Museum

If one is fond of warships, jet planes, helicopters and all things military, the USS Midway Museum is like an adult disneyland. Boarding the USS Midway Museum can be overwhelming as there is so much to see. USS Midway was considered a City at Sea where it has its own ecosystem. A living community. It was the longest-serving aircraft in America (1945–1992). Upon entering, a headset with audio player with a self-guided tour would be provided. This would help visitors find their way around the area. And I must say, if you go through the audio tour thoroughly, it would take a whole day. There are 60 exhibit locations within the ship. Through its networks of complex corridors and multi-platforms, we were led to hundreds of cabins showing the living conditions of the people who lived in the USS Midway. For a newcomer like me inside a vessel like this, the details just sparks imagination on the day-to-day goings of the crew here. But for the veterans who visit, there may be a tinge of nostalgia as they relive their lives on board the USS Midway or a similar military sea vessel.

My favorite part of the tour here is seeing the aircrafts on board. From the different jet planes and helicopters. There are even opportunity to sit in the plane cockpit and get inside the huge carriers that I only got to see in the movies. It was a fun and educational tour that lasted up to 3 hours for us. I don’t think we have seen everything there is to see but I certainly saw the immensity and the power of the US military through the USS Midway Museum.

The ship also had strong historical connections with the Philippines as half of its air combat fleet were offloaded temporarily at Subic Bay and Cubi point in 1975 during their operations in Vietnam. The ship made several connections even plying the seas of Palawan. It was in 1991 when the USS Midway had its final deployment and it was in the Philippines when around 20,000 military personnel were rescued from Clark Air Base after Mt Pinatubo erupted. That Philippine connection made USS Midway more significant for a Filipino, after all, it was their last mission before the Midway was decommisioned.

The USS Midway Musuem
910 N. Harbor Drive
San Diego, CA 92101
Visit: www.midway.org

The Unconditional Surrender and the USS Midway at the background

Getting to know the milestones of the USS Midway

Vintage fighter planes on display

The cool looking F-8 Crusader fighter

Jet cockpit

Training room console

A soldier’s locker

A cafeteria in the ship

The ironing room

Complex pipes and levers

The unconditional surrender seen from the ship restaurant

The post California | First time in San Diego and the USS Midway Museum appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

The highest waterfalls in Bontoc, the Hamuyyo Falls

Bontoc is such an underrated destination in the Mountain Province region. I must admit that I was guilty of dismissing Bontoc as simply a gateway to other destinations like Sagada, Banaue or Kalinga. Discovering the beauty of Maligcong three years ago changed my notion of Bontoc. I realized, the town is just the tip of the iceberg. My recent visit found me in Talubin, the neighboring village 6km from Bontoc Town proper, known as the Land of Clear Waters in the province. One look into the village, it’s easy to see the abundance of water flowing through the village. Talubin village is settled comfortably at the slopes of the Cordillera Mountain Ranges where streams from the mossy forest continuously flow and a clean river runs through. We were also there to visit one of the main source of water in Bontoc, the Humuyyo Falls, located 3,700 feet above sea level.

Start of hike in Talubin

Hike to Humuyyo Falls

I was accompanied by friends from Maligcong Suzzete of the Maligcong Homestay, Tina, the ever reliable guide and travel buddy Lagalog. Jerome, Suzzete’s husband dropped us of by the bridge near the jump-off trail. I was looking for something new to explore in Bontoc and I thought this would be good to explore. Seeing the photos at the Bontoc Tourism Office and getting assurance from the tourism officer, Elli, that water flows through this falls all year long sure was enticing.

The first 15 minutes of the hike is along the paved water canals supplying the rice terraces. The elevation gets higher and we could see the bridge below were we started. Then, the first water crossing begins. The water was indeed clear and very cold. Tempting to stay a bit but we were just starting our trek. The trail then goes on the side of the mountains. The trail was narrow and often had some soft grounds but surrounded lush vegetation. We crossed several streams and cascades. By my count if I’m not mistaken, around five, as we made our way up following the path of the cascades.

Vegetation getting denser

The first stream crossing

Continue our way up

Continue story and essential info on the next page…

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At the Abanao Poaoy of the Mt Ulap Eco-Trail

Clouds have always been a thing of fascination. People climb mountains often to see the play of clouds billow across mountain peaks like waves. Dissipating in a dance from nebulous to nothingness. When I heard about the Mt Ulap Eco-Trail which recently opened last October 2015, I was intrigued. The Eco-trail is also known as the Philex Ridge, named after the huge mining company operating in the area. The highest peak, was named Mt Ulap by an engineer named “Lagman” who marked the summit in February 1, 1939. He described that the mountain is perennially a magnet for clouds (which is “ulap” in tagalog). The trail has long been a playground for trail runners from Baguio and Benguet. Now the local government, particularly the Ampucao Tourism Council opened the trail to the public.

Morning hues at Abanao Paoay

The Mt Ulap Eco-Trail

I wanted to catch the sunrise at the peak and taking the public transpo wouldn’t do. We hired a taxi from Baguio and took the 45-minute ride to Ampucao Baranggay Hall which is the registration area. Even at 2:00am there were already people to attend to us there. One by one, guides were coming in to list their names on their log book. There are about 100 registered guides here and about 50 active ones on duty throughout the week. For the guides, the earlier they list their names, the sooner they get to do guide duty. First come first serve. And possibly do another guiding duty for the day to double their income. I’m actually impressed on how organized the Ampucao Tourism Council is. The place is well-kept and documents accounted for. There’s a Php 100 registration fee for each visitor and Php 400 for a guide fee for a group of up to 7 pax.

Clouds rolling over the ridges

Climb to Abanao Paoay

We started our hike at 3:00am and Alex was our lucky guide. The first guide on their list. From the Municipal Hall we had a 1km walk to the jump-off Tomtombek. Alex calls the walk a warm-up but the steep first paved road ascend was the real warm up. There’s a signage before the dirt trail to give an idea of the major points of the Mt Ulap Eco-trail. From them on, it was a 45-minute assault into the dark pine forest trail. The Baguio and Benguet city lights behind us. Alex is quite knowledgeable of the area and would point us to where Lingayen Gulf of Pangasinan could be seen.

We reached Abanao Paoay by 4:30am. The darkness was enveloped in mist. Our headlamps could only illuminate up to 5 feet in front of us. We decided to wait there for the sunrise. The thick clouds quelled our expectations of a dramatic sunrise. Though the sliver opening through the clouds let us peak through the sun shyly hiding behind it. The light was subtle but soon we were able to see the landscape before us, a wide grassland with picturesque hills. The name aptly describes the place as Abanao means “vast” and Paoay means “grass”. There’s a wide ground for a camp site and also an area they call the rock balancing hill.

Afternoon rains make the plants more vibrant

Descending the hill

Looking back at the peaks of Abanao Paoay

Narrow ridge trail to Gungal

Gungal Rocks and Mt Ulap Summit on the next page…

The post Benguet | Mt Ulap Eco-Trail: A Trek Through the Clouds appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

The biggest Storybook Castle in all Disney parks is in Shanghai

It’s the happiest place on Earth! Who wouldn’t want to go there? And now it just got a lot bigger. Shanghai Disney Resort, to date the largest foreign investment Walt Disney Company has made, opened recently in Pudong Shanghai. The sprawling 11-acre is where one’s Disney fantasy gets real. Just in time, AirAsia Philippines just relaunched their direct, Manila to Shanghai flights three times a week. And to celebrate this momentous occasion as mainland China ventures into a whole new world of Disney, we’re giving one reader and his/her companion a trip to Shanghai with free passed to Shanghai Disney Resort.

AirAsia Philippines Reconnects to Shanghai

AirAsia, the World’s Best Low Cost Carrier for seven consecutive years, is offering direct flights from Manila to Shanghai started June 10 with all-in promotional fares starting from as low as P2,888 only.

Flights between Manila and Shanghai will be operated by Philippines AirAsia with the following schedule:

Z2 19 Shanghai Manila

Shanghai Disneyland Resort

The $5.5-billion ShanghaiDisney Resort is the company’s third theme park resort in Asia, following properties in Tokyo and Hong Kong. It is also the third-largest property, slightly smaller than Disneyland Paris Resort but nearly twice the size of the original Disneyland Resort in California and is strategically located in Shanghai’s bustling Pudong district, home to some of Shanghai’s most recognizable skyscrapers and a number of luxury hotels, and just 12.5 miles from the Shanghai Pudong International Airport.

The Bund

Other Attractions in Shanghai

The most influential city in China, Shanghai pulsates with life amongst the bright lights from towering skyscrapers, fashionable folks strolling along the scenic banks of The Bund, and old temples with rich culture and history. Here at the heart of the huge metropolis, you can find the perfect blend of cultures – old and new, western and oriental – exemplifying what contemporary China is all about.

• The Bund. A symbol of Shanghai’s colourful past and thriving future, this 1.5km-long waterfront on the banks of Huangpu River is lined up with avant-garde buildings that are Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Neo-Classical-inspired. Across the river is an astounding skyline of Shanghai’s skyscrapers, including the famous Oriental Pearl Tower.
• Yuyuan Gardens. One does not think of tranquillity when you come to the Yuyuan Gardens. A souvenir paradise, there are countless vendors surrounding the lively square amongst impressive classical Chinese architecture. Shop for jade, jewellery or handicrafts, or even splurge at the more popular brands within the gardens.
• Xintiandi. Located in the French Concessions Area is Xintiandi, the ultimate car-free shopping, dining and entertainment area. Traditional Shikumen (stone gate) buildings have been turned into cafés and restaurants, bars and chic boutique stores. Translated as “new heaven and earth”, Xintiandi is a great place to soak in the historical and cultural elements of the city set amidst modernity.
• Shanghai Art Museum. From the outside, the building strikes an opulent modern pose but once inside, it is a sanctuary for ancient art appreciation. Take a look at the intricate beauty of thousand-year-old Chinese bronzes, sculptures, ceramics, jades, seals, calligraphies, coins and currencies, paintings, furniture as well as crafts of China’s ethnic minorities.
• Nanjing Road. A true shopping paradise! Nanjing Road is one of the world’s longest and most vibrant shopping districts, and a must-see for fashion shoppers and tourists! This 6km-long street is constantly buzzing with excitement all day, and when night falls, the vibrant lights from the stores and restaurants illuminate the street brilliantly.

Contest Mechanics

We are giving away one winner two tickets to Shanghai and two passes for the Shanghai. Please see details below.

• Travel must be done by the end of August
• AirAsia Philippines will only cover roundtrip tickets Manila-Shanghai. Winner will be responsible for the cost of securing Chinese Visa, accommodations and other travel expenses during the trip.
• To join the contest, you MUST follow the instagram accounts @ironwulf and @airasiaph
• Look for the AirAsia Philippines and Shanghai Disney Resort post and follow the instructions on what to comment.
• Contest runs from June 17 to midnight of June 19, 2016
• The winner will be contacted first to confirm if they can travel and will be announced on June 20, 2016
• The winner will be determing via Random.org

Essential Info for Chinese VISA

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Inside the Deluxe Suite room at Jupiter Suites

Makati is a prime location in Metro Manila. If you’re travelling and looking for a place to stay within this city, initial impression would be that it would be expensive. A bed alone at one of the hostels can cost Php 500–700 alone. But if you have a little more budget and yearning for more space than the four corners of a bed, it is worth checking out Jupiter Suites in Bel-air Makati. More than a decade of experience is its charm and ridiculously huge rooms as one of its key appeal.

Hotel lobby

Jupiter Suites Hotel

The facade may look outdated standing opposite the Petron gas station along Jupiter Street in Makati. Flanked by a number of fast food eateries including the Papa Johns Pizza on its street level, it may be even easy to miss. But finding and entering its unpretentious lobby, it is easy feel the warmth from the greetings of the staff at the reception. Jupiter Suites has been in the business for 15 years as I’ve learned. The core of its staff have even served since 10–11 years. Talk about dedication. But I guess this is a testimony of how the owners have taken their staff as well. And it does translate to how these people treat us customers – naturally friendly and accommodating.

My working table in the suite

Big Rooms

I was given room 203 and boy was it spacious. It is a 42sqm Deluxe Suite. So much space that I can place 3 additional mattresses and it would still have space to move around. The design is old school, a little on the vintage side but charming still. Not much view from my room since I was facing the opposite side of the building though. Much of the 25 rooms at Jupiter Suites is like this, roomy starting at 33sqm up to 42sqm. I like that I have a working table and desk, LCD TV with Cable TV, personal ref and decent WiFi access. Bathroom even has its own tub though toiletry isn’t complete. Bring your own toothbrush and toothpaste.

Jupiter Suites doesn’t have a full-service restaurant but has an informal dining cafe on the second floor to serve the complimentary breakfast. Though there are already a lot of dining options nearby, having breakfast offered in-house is quite convenient especially if one is still in PJs and is not in the mood to go out. They offer bacon and corned beef as options. And I’m o so glad they gave me brewed coffee, not that instant 3-in–1 that often upsets my tummy. If you are really lazy, breakfast can be served in-room too.

Jupiter Suites hotel facade

Value for Money

For a tried-and-tested hotel with years of experience, Jupiter Suites deliver on the bare essentials – great service, homey rooms with extra generous space and location that’s hard to beat. Checking their prices at Agoda, they are quite affordable too with rates around Php 1,500 to 2,500. Considering the location and size of the room, that offers great value. It’s ideal for business travelers and people in transit.

Jupiter Suites
102 Jupiter Street, Bel-Air, Village, Makati City, Philippines 1209
Tel. (632) 890.5044 to 50
Fax (632) 890.5019
Visit: www.jupitersuites.com.ph
Check Rates and Book Online

The large comfy bed

So much room I can do my yoga practice here

That’s a nice looking staircase

2nd floor breakfast dining area

Breakfast with brewed coffee

The post Stay | Jupiter Suites: Spacious Rooms at Affordable Prices in the Heart of Makati appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

Mt Mayon at the Albay Gulf

Albay has a special place in my childhood. I have fun memories of many summers spent in Albay. My mom hails in Daraga and we would visit her home often. No matter how long the drive, it’s always the majestic Mayon, the imposing Daraga Church and enjoyable time with cousins and siblings. My last visit though was drenched in tears like the heavy rain that poured upon us the day we said goodbye to my dearest lola (grandma). I was close to her. Relatives always say I’m her favorite apo (grandson). That was more than a decade ago. When an photo assignment from InFlight came recently, I thought I guess it’s time to come back. Not only to retrace the steps of my youth but to re-discover Albay.

At the moment. Finally heading back to my mother’s home town after more than a decade. #mtmayon on the horizon #travel #atm #enrouteph #bicol #albay #daraga #ontheroad #video

A video posted by Ferdz Decena (@ironwulf) on Aug 3, 2015 at 3:32am PDT

Drive to Albay

We took a 12-hour drive from Manila using the convenience of our vehicle. Stopping whenever we want wether for some interesting sights, hunger pangs or simple restroom breaks. The drive to Bicol was less cumbersome this time than I remembered. Most of the road now are paved making the travel a lot more comfortable and faster. Of course we passed by places I usually look forward to whenever I travel to Bicol, like the treacherous twisting turns of the Bitukang Manok (chicken intestine) road in Quezon, the breezy roadside eateries in Atimonan Quezon and the first glimpse of Mt Mayon’s conical grandeur in Polangui.

Albay is such a large province consisting of 18 municipalities. It is home to the iconic Mt Mayon and where concoction of fiery coconut infused dishes were born. Meals exploding with spiciness and aroma akin to how regular Mt Mayon has erupted to let out steam. Recently, Albay was included in UNESCO’s list of World Network of Biosphere Reserves last March 2016, citing the province as an example of sustainable development and biodiversity.

Morning at the Legazpi Boulevard

Legazpi Boulevard Mornings

First order in our first day of our work itinerary was to visit the Legazpi Boulevard. The 4.095km seawall and coastal road was inaugurated last 2009, quite a long time ago but it was new to my eyes. With the view of Mt Mayon and the sleeping lion hill they call Kapuntukan Hill along the cerulean waters of Albay Gulf, Legazpi Boulevard is undoubtedly one of the scenic boulevards in the country.

The early morning vibe was active and energetic. There were people jogging, biking or simply walking. We came a few days before a major triathlete event and encountered some of the participants training for the event. I’m impressed how lucid the waters along the port was. My amazement to both the athletes and how clean and pristine the surrounding was.

Kapuntukan Hill front of Mt Mayon

Triathletes young and old in training

Other triathlete ready to swim

Kids off to school

Daraga on the next page…

The post Bicol | Albay: A Ride to Reminisce appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

One of the workers at an abaca furniture factory in Camalig Albay

If you’ve ever visited the furniture shop Crate and Barrel, chances are, you may have seen these finely crafted placemats, carpets, rugs or even some exquisite living room furniture pieces made from abaca (Manila hemp), rattan or nito. The prices here is a premium and it’s easy to conclude that most of them may be imported. Interestingly, when I visited Camalig, Albay’s Natural Carpet Industries,  I was surprised to see Crate and Barrel tags on the newly woven circular abaca placemats inside their 7,300 sq. m. factory. Those US$10 placemats at the shop can be bought here directly for only US$ 3. It just shows that the abaca industry is back in the limelight as one of the main export products of the country and can compete with international brands.

NCI’s showroom in Camalig

Natural Carpet Industries

I enjoy visiting factories such as the ones at Natural Carpet Industries in Camalig, Albay. Work places fascinate me as I have always been intrigued on how product pieces are put together. Their 100+ workforce may be busy but the workers seem to be at ease with what they are doing. Once in a while, chatting and joking with each other. Each person has a specialized task. From weaving the abaca fibers, to lightly burning the fabric for excess strands, painting some pieces and putting tags on each one of them. The value of these products are high as they are meticulously hand-crafted.

Removing the loose strands of fiber

Humble Beginnings

Abaca and rattan handicraft is a backyard industry in Bicol. It was in 1995 when Felipe Napa Jr started his small handicraft business named as Napa’s Handicraft using capital money by mortgaging his family’s properties. His perseverance rose through the local competition and eventually got his products to international stores like The Pottery Barn, The Gap and Muji in Japan. In 2014, Felipe Napa received the Outstanding Albayano Award for Decorative Arts.

I went back to the showroom and took a second look at the products inside the room with deeper appreciation. They look exquisite by themselves but seeing the work behind them makes them more valuable.

The growth of the company means more jobs to the community

Natural Carpet Industries

Zone 5, Brgy. Sumlang, Camalig, 4502, Albay
Contact: (02) 738–9963
Mobile: 0917.570.1830, 0932.811.1704
E-mail: napa_felipenoejr@yahoo.com

Basket weaving

Putting the basket handles

Crate and Barrel mats

Working on the huge carpets

Paying attention to the details and patterns

Finished products on display

The post Albay | Camalig Natural Carpet Industries: Behind the World-Class Abaca Products appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

Breakfast at Sumlang Lake

The imposing Mt Mayon, from any angle in Albay looks picturesque but there are places that’s more conducive for gawking at its glory. Still in Camalig near the Natural Carpets Industries (NCI) workshop is Sumlang Lake. This 14-hectare lake used to be a carpet of lilies until the village residents decided to clean it up three years ago and uncovered its placid beauty. They saw the potential of its unobstructed view of Mt Mayon as the backdrop for this scenic lake. To this date, it is a rising destination in Albay, enjoying 300–500 visits on weekends.

Placid lake with parked balsa (bamboo rafts)

Sumlang Lake Reborn

Felipe Napa of NCI is also the village chief of Camalig, Albay. He helped adorn the lake with some of his outdoor rattan products and placed them on bamboo rafts. Some old metal barrels were also recycled to chairs for the free cottages. Truly a stylish and comfortable way to enjoy the view. But it was the bamboo raft race event in 2014 where Sumlang Lake got some buzz when it hosted the event. To date aside from the rattan outdoor furnitures, guest can rent the rafts to explore the lake. Prices differ on the size. The small ones for Php 25/hour and the larger ones can cost Php 200/hour that is good for 8–10pax. Kayaks and pedal-boats are also available to rent.

There are no entrance fees for Sumlang Lake but registration is required and optional donations are welcome. People are free to bring their own food for picnics like what we did during our shoot there for a prospective cover.

Rafts can be rented to explore the lake

Getting to Sumlang Lake

Sumlang Lake is only 300 meters from the National Highway and can be reached in 5 minutes from the town proper. Tricycles can take visitors to the lake from Camalig Church.

Coming from Legazpi or Daraga vans and jeeps pass by the area. Tell the driver to drop you off Albay Agri Ethno Eco Village ( Agri-Village ) in Cabangan, Camalig. From there you can walk the 300meters or ride a tricycle.

If you have your own vehicle, parking is available but limited.

Cooking on the raft

The post Albay | Scenic Stillness of Sumlang Lake in Camalig appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

Talk about Bicol and it’s hard not to tag one of the region’s signature dishes – the Pinangat. I had fond memories of this spicy and aromatic dish growing up. Whenever relatives from the province would visit our home, the pinangat is mostly one of the treats they would bring. Packed frozen and wrapped tightly in layers of newspaper to keep it fresh. While I had seen how the dish was made from our kitchen, it is interesting to see how it is mass-produced in a backyard industry setting. My recent visit to Camalig found me fascinated by both the sight and smell on how one of the most sought-after pinangat was concocted.

Ate Zeny Nocedo holding the luscious gabi leaves from Guinobatan

Zeny’s Pinangat

Bicol’s pinangat ingredients are shredded gabi or taro leaves, gata (coconut milk), spices and occasionally meat. The ingredients are wrapped tightly in gabi leaves and simmered slow in coconut milk. While I have observed the process when cooked at home, it’s another thing when prepared for many. At Zeny’s Pinangat in Camalig, owner Zeny Nocedo’s version of this beloved dish is sought-after that she receives orders from 100–200 per day. Some orders even came from some chefs in Manila.

Meat and spices includes ginger, fish or meat, lemon grass, and Bicol’s staple, hot bird’s eye chillies, and coconut cream.

The Guinobatan Gabi

So what’s so special about Zeny’s pinangat or Camalig in general? It may be from several factors. Gabi may grow abundant in different places but the ones in Guinobatan, where they source their gabi leaves, grow within the vicinity of Mt Mayon. The soil is rich in minerals and the plants have plenty enough water. Another is that they cook their traditional way of cooking the dish – with clay pots and wood fire.

With my extensive experience on trying out a number of pinangat already, I can attest to the quality of Zeny’s Pinangat. It’s a lot more aromatic having used the best ingredients available, the gabi leaves are crushed just enough to make the dish simply melt-in-your-mouth and creamy. Bicolanos loves this dish for just being healthy.

Tightly wrapping the ingredients in gabi leaves

If you are interested to try Zeny’s Pinangat when in Camalig, Albay, it is best to order at least a day ahead. Contact +63916.288.5491. A regular order is Php 35 while the special (with more ingredients) at Php 50. Frozen pinangat can last up to six months.

Cooking pinangat the traditional way on open wood fire

Pinangat simmering in coconut milk

From raw ingredients to finished product

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Magnificent Tangadan Falls

The surf, the easy going vibe and the interesting eats may be the draw for the destination such as La Union. But even when the swell’s down, there’s another activity to get wet while away from the coast. At the highlands of San Gabriel, La Union, the cool climes of this municipality entices with nature hikes and waterfalls like is Tangadan Waterfalls. I was participating in Lakbay Norte, a long-running annual familiarization tour of north Luzon and this was one of the stops in our itinerary I was looking forward to.

Taking the jeep to Tangadan Falls

Ride to San Gabriel

There are two ways to Tangadan Falls as I have learned. The first one is a two-hour river trek along Baroro River. Speaking with the people who have done this trek, they said it was a lot scenic despite the longer time to get to the falls. The thought of doing that excited me but since we have limited time and I don’t think everyone in the group is prepared for the trek we took the easy way. We hired a couple of jeep to ride us to the closest jump-off point in San Gabriel. From there on it is just a 20-30 minutes hike. The ride was very scenic with an overlooking view of San Juan, La Union at the higher points. As the elevation gets higher, the temperature gets closer. One of our guides claim at times they need two blanket to sleep as it was cold at night.

Start of the trek

Curtains of Tangadan Falls

The hike was indeed very manageable as the trail was an easy flight of stairs and dirt paths. It wasn’t long before we found ourselves at Tangadan Falls. There were vendor stalls there but it is far enough from the falls to obstruct its view. Fitting to the origin of the fall’s name of “Tangad” which means “to look up”, people would naturally look up from the ground to admire this falls. Tangadan is a multi-layer falls. The two falls on the main basin. The water is also wide enough to swim in. Large bamboo raft can be rented to get under the falls. The bamboo is deep enough that thrillseekers can jump from the top of the falls.

There is also a smaller falls but a basin as deep on the upper level. Other people also enjoy jumping from this upper level of the falls. I find this falls really enjoyable. It’s large enough for many people. If one is looking for a nature side trip as a break from the surf, Tangadan Falls is both magnificent and fun.

The twin falls at the main basin

Essential Info

To visit Tangadan Falls contact Daryl Dacumos of the Tourism Office at 09177943484. Guide fee is Php 500  for up to a group of 5pax. Jeep rental is Php 1500-2000. This is ideal for groups.

For independent travelers, from San Juan, La Union, ride a jeep north and tell the driver to drop you off San Gabriel. Hire a tricycle to take you to Tangadan Falls jump-off, fare is Php 50. Guide fee is still Php 500.

Trek passing through rice fields

Flight of stairs leading to the falls

First sight of the falls

A jumper

Rafts can be rented to get closer to the falls

Doing my bakasa at the falls viewdeck

Jumpers at the upper level of the falls

Close look at the jump

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Lifeguard post at San Juan Beach

It’s easy to get lost in reverie when on the beach. The infinite swells and crashing waves has that hypnotic hook once gazed for merely seconds. This same trance-like state lingered for a moment as sundown sets upon the famed San Juan Beach of La Union. San Juan beach is a playground for both novice and veteran surfers. But for non surfers, it’s an ideal stretch to lounge or simply walk around.

Beach bonfire

San Juan Beach

It’s funny that I only got deeper appreciation of San Juan beach recently even if I had been there several times already. Probably because in the recent visits, I got to stay longer and wander. La Union in general had this fantastic feel good vibe reminiscent of its surf culture. There’s a growing number of interesting eats in the area, a developing art culture, and a good range of resorts along San Juan Beach. Having a little bit more time in our hands, it was manageable to just walk to these establishments whether on the beach or the parallel coastal road. The community here have an infectious down-to-earth demeanor, taking things along as they flow.

Along the crashing waves

Soothing Sundown

I was with an adventurous bunch from Lakbay Norte on one of my recent visit. We got to stay a few days in La Union and in one of those days, it was simply chill time by the beach in the afternoon. We had marshmallows over fire, cold beer in hand and a few laughs with the company. Along with these is seeing the spectacular sundown at San Juan Beach. There were surfers, skim boarders, beachcombers and other people doing their own thing. Life is simple here which just makes things extra special.

Waves at play

Essential Info

From Manila, take any bus heading to Laoag, Vigan, Abra, Ilocos Sur or San Fernando, La Union. Travel time is 4-6 hours. Make sure to tell the conductor to drop you off at Urbiztondo, San Juan, La Union. Partas, Viron, Genesis and Farinas buses pass by La Union.

Surfers and beach lovers

Catching the sunset at San Juan Beach

The post La Union | San Juan Beach Sundown appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

Inside Better Books in Salmiya Kuwait

It was one of those afternoons where I was simply sitting down and relaxing in a donut shop with coffee in hand. Being new in Kuwait, walking has been my way to familiarize with the city. Afternoons are much pleasant and bearable even with the summer heat. I was browsing through my google maps checking what’s interesting near my area then I came across Better Books. As I haven’t seen a lot of good bookstores yet in Kuwait, I thought it would be interesting to check it out being near to where I am in Amman street.

The stairway leading to the bookstore

A Hidden Surprise

Having spent almost a month already in the Salmiya, I am quite familiar with the grid layout of the city. The addresses is still something I have to decipher. I still have to get used to as some establishments with Arabic signs. Worse,  some doesn’t even have signboards. Better Books can be easy to miss even with the location pinned on Google Maps. Since I had an experience of joining a yoga class where the studio is located in a building basement, I thought the bookstore was also located in the same area. When I saw an opening leading to a bright stairway, my guess was right. I saw scribbles of quotes about books and reading at the walls of the stairway leading to a room. I went in and found a room full of books.

Upon entering the bookstore

Better Books Bookstore

For book lovers like me, it felt like I stumbled on a treasure trove. Unlike the local book sale stores in the Philippines where the books are just stacked or shelved un-orderly, Better Books is well organized and neatly presented. Books are categorized properly and the titles are quite good too. I see familiar authors like Bill Bryson, Paul Theroux, Nick Hornby and even a local Philippine author Miguel Syjuco. Aside from second-hand books, new books are also in stock.

The place is quite cozy with warm lighting, ample space, chairs for reading in the area, quiet nooks and even the resident cat, Frosty to entertain customers in the store. Occasionally, coffee or tea can be served for returning customers if available.

Reading nooks

What makes Better Books different from a typical second hand bookstore is it’s also has a community. Customers can return the books they bought and are given 50% store credit from the amount of book returned. The credits can be used for purchase on their next book. It’s quite an interesting concept to enable the book to circulate and get good discount for the regular customers. People may also bring books they want to give away and earn store credits. The book though has to be assessed for value.

Better Books has been around for six years already. It continues to be a hidden gem of a place for book lovers in Salmiya. If you love books and reading, better head over there.

Frosty, the resident cat with the book I bought

Better Books
Block 10, Salmiya, Hawalli Governorate, Kuwait
Opening Hours is from 10:30am to 9:00pm everyday
Contact 25642743
Visit website at betterbookskuwait.blogspot.com

Cozy chairs around the store

They even got a Filipino author in their selection

Read a bit before buying

Another reading nook

The post Salmiya | Better Books Kuwait: More than a Second Hand Bookstore appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

The infinity pool illuminated

There is so much action happening at San Juan Beach, La Union. The surfing, the chill night life and interesting eats in the area. Right smack at the center of it all is our lodging, Kahuna Beach Resort and Spa. A luxury Filipino-Balinese inspired resort facing the famed shores of San Juan Beach. This was our home for a night during our Lakbay Norte leg in La Union.

Inside the Garden Villa room

Kahuna Beach Resort

After a long drive from Manila to La Union, it’s comforting to see the spacious room and cozy beds of our Garden View Room. Kahuna Beach Resort have 40 rooms and villas of different types. The Garden View room is at the inner part of the resort along a landscaped pathway of greens. The room have thatched roofing for a native style feel. The interior however have modern facilities – AC, cable TV, WiFi etc. The walls have high glass, even the doors. Curtains can be pulled down for some privacy. What I do like is the large bathroom with wide glass window opening up to the covered bamboo wall with plants outside.

There are more upscale rooms available like the Ocean View and Ocean Villa rooms which has easy access to infinity pool and also the beach. A resthouse is also available for big groups and families.

Big Kahuna Bar and Restaurant at sunset

Beach Front Facilities

Speaking of the pool, Kahuna Beach Resort and Spa has a very inviting infinity pool facing the beach. At sunset it becomes more appealing with the pool illuminated. The Big Kahuna Bar and Restaurant not only serves sumptuous dishes but has one scenic dining area. Having meals with the beach in view especially at sunset makes the dining experience a lot more memorable.

Kahuna Beach Resort and Spa may be partly be Balinese-inspired but part of its name has Hawaiian origins. Kahuna which may mean an a “wise man” or a “big wave” in Hawaiian and may be descriptive of the resort as well. As it is a wise decision to stay here if you want to catch the big waves of La Union.

Resort reception area

Kahuna Beach Resort and Spa (Book Online)
National Highway, Brgy. Urbiztondo,
San Juan, La Union 2514

Mobile: +63.917.830.0363 +63.998.855.2837
Landline: +63.72.607.1040 to 41
email: info@kahunaresort.com
web: www.kahunaresort.com

Check Rates and Book Online

The bar and dining area

Garden View bathroom

Al fresco dining at sunset

The post Stay | Kahuna Beach Resort and Spa: La Union Luxury appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

The arc and the calm shores of San Juan Beach

It was a calm morning. Subtle purple hues dominated the sky. I made my way to the segmented stairs leading to the topmost viewing deck atop the rock where this private resort was named from, La Roca Villa. It was only in this morning light when I can truly appreciate the place. From this higher vantage point, I could see the Greek-inspired structures of the resort. White washed walls, blue domes, a pool and the low-tide shores filled my view. Immediately, Santorini came into mind.

The suite room living room

Spacious Rooms

We came to La Roca Villa in the evening so I didn’t manage see the surroundings. I did notice our room though. We were lucky enough to be placed at the Suite Room sharing with about five more people. It was huge enough with a large living room, a kitchen, a bar and another huge bedroom. Furninshing was quite tasteful too.

There were other room options we got to see but I didn’t manage to get photos of. There’s the Studio Room (Php 3,500) with a large area that also has its own kitchen and private balcony. The Standard Room (Php 2000) good only up to 2 persons but still have ample space to move around.

Inside La Cueva

La Roca Villa

I was lucky enough to had a little chat with the owner, Suzzete. The resort used to be a private vacation house with her husband. She opened it to her relatives and friends. Eventually opening later on for the public.

La Roca Villa has some curios elements as well. If you ever visit or stay, check out the La Cueva. It’s a small cave inside the rock. The husband and wife owner wanted the place to be a private library. The humidity though isn’t ideal for books. They still worked on the room though for those who are interested to stay.

La Roca Villa has a very serene ambiance on its beachside location. Quiet but still very accessible. In fact, we only walked back to the resort coming from the bars and eatery along the main road. The place exudes a romantic air, that’s why it wasn’t a surprise when the owner told us they are popular for weddings and pre-nups. It is one lovely villa in La Union.

Villa entrance

La Roca Villa
Surfers’ Road
Urbiztondo,
2514 San Juan La Union
Philippines

Contact: (+6372)242.3770
(+6372) 242.5647
web: www.larocavilla.com

The villa facade

The suite room main bedroom

Gate to the beach

View of the pool and the beach

Doing the camel pose on top of the rock

The scenic tree

Entrance to La Cueva

Under the bunk bed at the La Cueva room

The post Stay | La Roca Villa La Union: Little Santorini by the Rock appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

Lukoy Beach, the secret white beach of Sabtang Island

Much can be said already about Sabtang Island, Batanes. It may be the the most accessible island from Batan island and host to many day trip tours, but there are still spots that remain untouched by visitors on the tourist trail. Lukoy Beach is one of those white sand beaches that people often pass by when doing a tour in Savidug and Chavayan. Often called the Secret Beach of Sabtang, the inviting white stretch can be viewed from a cliff. My native guide Mael, knew the way though. So coming from the Savidug Idjang Fortress, we rode back to the village to borrow his improvised snorkeling gear and rode towards this pristine white beach.

The white beach seen from the cliff

Lukoy Beach and the Healing Waters

Often times, remote places have an element of mystery and enchantment. Lukoy Beach is no exception. Mael draws in from his childhood experience to share his memories of this place. He remembered the time when he would suffer from illness like high fever or flu, his parents would bring him to this beach. They would burrow through the sand near the rocks and find the warm clear waters underground. This is the underground fresh water stream running from the hill slopes toward the sea. He would be bathed with this water and miraculously be healed. I can’t verify whether this water truly has healing qualities but it was an interesting story.

Sand patterns of flowing streams

White Beach and Snorkeling

We made down a short steep rocky stairway down the beach. With the mid-morning sun, we found some large rocks to take shade in and put our things. The beauty of Lukoy Beach is in it’s isolation and rawness. The sand quality is grainy white and one could notice the nature lines of the underground stream flowing through the shores to the sea. We swam on the rocky part of the beach where Mael told me there were many fishes. Couldn’t agree more as I found more fish here than in Vuhus Island. Even with only my goggles and old snorkel gear, I was just delighted to see a number of fishes here. Mael was with his daughter who was gleefully riding on his back. Occasionally going underwater and laughing her heart out when the surface back above water.

It was my last day in Sabtang Island and I was glad to cap-off my activities here with this snorkeling activity at Lukoy Beach. I could already see the potential of this place being a snorkeling and beach stop for tours. But then again I want this place to remain unspoilt as it is.

For a tricycle hire and guide in Sabtang Island do contact Mael at 09394750654.

Snorkeling the clear waters

Some of the fishes found at the site

Searching for some lobsters

Headed towards the rocky part of the beach

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We all know people are drawn to the natural beauty of Mt Mayon as a reason for visting Albay. But venture further, there are other attractions to add a little adventure to one’s sight seeing. About 16km passing through the town of Guinobatan is the municipality of Jovellar. Found tucked in the town of Quitinday is a nature gem still off the tourist trail. Discover scenic canyons, waterfalls and an exciting underground river.

Jovellar Rice Cakes and Kinunot

The jump-off to Jovellar’s natural attractions is in Quipa Village, Quitinday. Not to be mistaken with the Quitinday Green Hills which is in Camalig, Jovellar is already close to the border of Sorsogon. The Quipa River runs through the municipality all the way to Donsol in Sorsogon. At the Quipa Village tourist center, pay the Php 20 entrance fee for each person. Also make sure to try some of the local rice cakes to carbo load-up on this river adventure.

Among the signature dish in Jovellar is the Kinunot dish. Kinunot means “flaked”. For this dish, the main ingredient, the grilled chicken meat, is flaked and cooked in coconut milk, onion, garlic, chili, ginger, lemongrass and malunggay (moringa). Another interesting delicacy to try is their rice glutinous rice cake, binut-ong cooked in coconut milk and wrapped n banana leaf. There’s this pleasant saltiness and creaminess in the cake fully flavored with coconut milk. Locals love pouring hot tsokolate over it for an added flavor. Then there’s also the balig-ang fruit that looks like a smaller duhat. This purple sweet can be eaten sour but turns really sweet when ripe.

Naglaus Underground River

It only took us at least 10 minutes to reach the viewpoint of Naglaus Underground River Cave and see the river the flows through the cave. The descending trail of makeshift rock stairs was easily manageable. Because of the rains the day before, the water looks muddy than the usual emerald color it has our guides say. Going down further, despite the earthly colors dominating the flow, the canyon looks impressively scenic with those dramatic rocks and foliage forming a passage for this river. I could only imagine how it looks in green color. Though it doesn’t seem to deter some locals from jumping and enjoying the river.

The locals made a bamboo stairway and a wooden bridge to access the cave mouth. There’s a refreshing cascade of water near the cave mouth. On this trip, I was only able to reach the waterfalls and not explore the cave. Our guide told us the cave is about 150-meters long and can be explored through a bamboo raft. It would have been exciting to see what is inside though if it wasn’t for the limited time in Jovellar. There’s also the Sigpit Falls, 350 meters the opposite direction of the cave mouth that would have been interesting to see. Well something to come back for. Hopefully still an off-the-grid destination in Bicol.

Essential Info

How to go to Jovellar:

• From Legazpi City, ride a jeep to Guinobatan. Fare is Php 30. Travel time is 30 minutes.
• From Guinobatan, take a jeep to Jovellar. Fare is Php 50. Travel time is about 45 minutes.
• From Guinobatan town proper, hire a tricycle to take you to Quipa Village Tourist Center. Fare is Php 10.

Notes and tips:

• Entrance fee is Php 20 per person.
• Bamboo raft rental which includes guide is Php 200. Raft is good up to 10 persons
• Bring food and water (but take the trash with you when you get back ;))
• Bring spare clothes to change
• Rocks can be slippery so it is best to explore barefoot or cross river shoes with good traction.
• The last trip jeepney trip from Jovellar to Guinobatan is 3pm. Make sure to go back by that time. If you miss the jeep, habal-habal can be hired for Php 40/pax.

The post Jovellar | Quitinday Kinunot at Naglaus Underground River appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

With all the events and heavy eating on my early week stay in California, USA, I wanted to burn off some calories. I asked my sister if there were any trails I could run in the neighborhood. Discovery Lake in San Marcos came easily to her mind. She had ran there with here friends there. It is also a short 15–20 minutes drive from Vista. So my sisters and I decided to go there one morning for some run, walk or stroll.

Discovery Lake

We took the Ronald Packard Parkway from Vista, driving south and exiting right to San Marcos Boulevard. Discovery Lake is found within a residential area. Parking was easy, probably because it was a weekend. There was no entrance fee as well. For an urban park, I was impressed how scenic this patch of nature was. Despite the drought, the park has thriving greens.

The lake isn’t as big at 5 acres but there were ducks and a number of people are fishing by the rocky shoreline. Fishing is allowed on a catch and release basis using barbless hooks. Swimming or wading is also not allowed. There’s an .8 mile (1.2km) trail loop around the lake. The trail has both a paved and dirt trail. This is quite an easy trail ideal for beginners but there’s also a more challenging route leading high up the hill.

Run or Relax

I’m quite envious of the residence to have Discovery Lake only steps away from their home. This 24 acre nature space is a playground for young, old and even dogs. People can have picnics, there are benches and quiet spots. For those who want to train, a 4 mile trail is available. If I live in the area, you’ll find me here often, whether running or relaxing.

Discovery Lake
650 Foxhall Drive
San Marcos, CA 92078

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Have you seen the Where in Shanghai video (check below)  and do you want to get to know more about the Paris of the East?!  Answer this quiz to get a chance to win two round trip tickets to Shanghai!

Quiz Questions

1. What is the UNESCO World Heritage site featured in the video?
2. Where is the Zhujiajiao Water Village, which is also known as the Shanghai’s Venice?
3. What is the man-made forest with lakes built at the Chongming Island?

Put your answers as a comment to this blog in this format:

1. (answer)
2. (answer)
3. (answer)
   Facebook profile url

Then share this text on your Facebook account:

Join the #AirAsiaInShanghaiQuiz at http://bit.ly/2deG4F2 and get a chance to discover the Paris of the East!

Participants must at least be 18 years old, a citizen of the Philippines and must have an official Facebook account in public setting.

Contest runs from October 05 to October 19.  Correct entries will be raffled and the winner will be announced on October 26.  The winner will be notified via Facebook messenger.  Ticket prize not claimed in 60 days will be forfeited.

Terms and Conditions

1.     Ticket prize is exclusive of airport and terminal fees, and travel tax.

2.     The prize for this contest is not transferable and/or not convertible to cash.

3.     Booking must be done at least 14 working days before the flight date. No rebooking.

4.     Visa application is shouldered by the winner.

5.     The period for the use of vouchers is until April 2017. The prize flight vouchers are subject to flight availability and approval and cannot be used during embargo period.

6.     By participating in the Contest, the Participants agree to hold harmless, defend and fully indemnify the Organizer, its directors, employees, personnel, representatives and agents from and against all losses, damages, expenses and all third party actions,proceedings, claims, demands, costs (including without prejudice to the generality of this provision, the legal cost of each other), awards and damages arising as a result of the Participant’s entry in the Contest.

7.     By participating in the Contest, the Participants are deemed to agree to be bound by the terms and conditions of the Contest upon the submission of their entries for the Contest. The decisions of the Organizer in relation to every aspect of the Contest including but not limited to the types of Prize and the selection of winner shall be deemed final, conclusive and binding and the Organizer will not entertain any complaints in respect thereof under any circumstance.

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Maligcong has become one of my favorite destinations in the Mountain Province in the recent years. I’ve cited five reasons on a previous post why one should go to Maligcong.  Lately, I did notice that there’s already an influx of tourist discovering its quiet charm and natural wonder. Most of them were doing the short climb at Mt Kupapey to see the breathtaking landscape and the rice terraces at the slope of the mountains from the summit. Mt Kupapey is just one of the interesting places in Maligcong. My recent visits there were to do some exploration treks and hike, particularly the far flung village of Favarey and its surrounding area. This village amidst the vast field of rice terraces is called the “Old Town” by the locals as this is the original settlement of Maligcong.

The Trail to Favarey

A lot of weekend warriors spend only a night in Maligcong and are not able to venture further to Favarey. And to those who are intrepid enough to take the 1.7km cemented trail along the scenic rice paddies to the village will discover what the old village is like, insights into their culture and a closer view of the much preserved rice terraces.

Favarey feels a lot like Buscalan Village in Kalinga. A lot of the old wooden houses with cogon roofs are gone and replaced by concrete walls and galvanized roofs but the practice of burying their dead within the vicinity of their houses are apparent here. It made me more cautious of where I’m stepping on while walking hoping I won’t disrespect any departed souls. On some houses, the shak-khod (carabao horns) are displayed. The number of horns indicate the number of weddings celebrated by the family or clan.

I met a lot of locals there smiling and somewhat surprised with our unexpected visit. It’s not everyday they get to see outsiders in their village. A lot of the elders could not speak tagalog nor English. There was one lady elder with a beautiful snake-spine headband and native tattoos on her arms that I wanted to take a portrait of but she was to shy saying she looked ugly. I deferred taking photo out of respect but if only I could her them how naturally beautiful she looked.

Sacred Grounds

Maligcong has many similarities in beliefs with its neighboring municipalities in the Mountain Province. At the topmost hill of Favarey, past the rice ganaries is their sacred trees and ground called papattay. This highest point in the village overlooking the terraces is where they traditionally hold their rituals like the T-er which is done pre and post rice harvest. In three days, people are not allowed to venture the fields. Within the village is also an ator, similar to a dap-ay, is a circular area with stone seats and fireplace at the center where elders meet. People of Maligcong still hold on to their old traditions until now but admittedly made some short-cuts for the modern times for practicality. Like the duration of how long a corpse is displayed on a chair has been shortened.

Favarey have also embraced Christianity. The Baptist Church at the other side of the village is a prominent structure overlooking the rice terraces and the nearby mountains. A waterfall can also be seen at this vantage point which we were told is the source of water for Maligcong. People are not allowed to go there to avoid water contamination. And I must attest that water in Favarey is one of the best tasting water I’ve drank. This mountain water flows freely from an open tap at the center of the village. I made sure to fill my water bottle before heading back to Makunig. Taking it with me like the memory of my visit on this old settlement.

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